Sounds about right. We sell an 11:1 piston kit that would get you to 11.5 with a light decking of the head. I'm a fan of keeping the compression in the combustion chamber. The more pop-up your piston has the heavier it gets.
I really feel bad about pitching a bunch of stuff from our catalog but when it comes down to it I sell this stuff for a reason.
If you're going N/A I'd also overbore it to 83.5 and pick up a set of good rings like a Total Seal Gapless. Beam polish a set of stock rods, put some ARPs in them and have the shot peened (or the 4340 rods we sell are 18g lighter than stock and stronger
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Pay attention to cylinder wall finish when the machine shop puts the final hone on it. Your rings, whatever you choose, should include a card with a suggested finish. If not, 220 grit for cast rings, 280 grit for moly rings are pretty accepted guidelines. If the machine shop is using diamond cutters then the stones might need to be a little finer. Basiacally, find a good performance machine shop. They should be able to relate bore finish to rings in terms of the stones they use.
Also, attention to oil control is a great great asset. If there was a good way to plug the two oil drains down the backside of the block I'd do it to keep oil off the crank. As it stands there isn't so do the best you can. Crank scraper and windage tray all the way. Aerofoiling or knife edging the crank is good. Smoothing the inside of the block helps keep the oil in the pan but now we're getting into real serious racecar stuff.
One last thing... if you have a good used oil pump... stick with it. New replacements fail all too often and old ones are generally fine.