VW Forum banner

1984 GTI.. Red NWesty

22K views 56 replies 9 participants last post by  vwGLI 
#1 · (Edited)
Drove to Roseburg sunday and bought this GTI for 1500.. SUPER clean no rust, sunroof with new seal, kinda thrashed interior, no headliner.

PO rebuilt the 1.8 8v motor about 15k ago, ported the intake/exhaust ports in the BIG valve head, newer clutch and a close ratio scirocco tranny dunno how many miles are on the tranny.

the bad thing is the brake master leaks but i already have one on the way.. the odometer doesnt work, the tach only works when its cold outside, needs a new Ltaillight just cuz of the discolored turn signal.. i know im picky.

debating on swapping in my ABA with the FF code trans, this car gets maybe 25MPG right now on the freeway mainly cuz of the gearing in the close ratio, its fun but it just rapes the gas. i know the FF 5th gear could get swapped into the GTI trans but im not a big tranny guy that dont really wanna pay someone else to do it.





 
See less See more
3
#3 ·
put a new master cylinder in today and gravity bled the brakes. they work killer now! i was hoping that was all it was and not the booster too.

picked up a headliner from pick n pull today from a 84 GTI. thats all that was left in the car lol. sept the dash door cards and a few other things. $20 it is kinda thrashed but i think i can fix it. no cracks in it or major bends the rear corners are broken and there is some rough spots but its useable.
 
#5 ·
i would say more like 80 is when the motor sounds like its gunna rattle apart lol. n about 4K RPMs. Im thinking im gunna pull the motor and trans probably sell the motor n build the trans at some point. FF 5th maybe or diesel 5th with a Quaife Dif.. some day when im rich. lol

I think this car needs a ABA 16V motor, maybe turbo. but id rather keep in NA for a easier more reliable non blowing up motor. lol. been debating on finding a OBDI block and building it with a craigslist 16V swap motor for cheap maybe.

Really just need the 16V head and the electrical components, all the other stuff for the 16V conversion could/should be bought new
 
#6 ·
put my Power Recaros in yesterday. :) and a pic of my uncracked but missing a few peices dash.





Also stripped and resprayed the bumpers that werent on the car, and a did a HID conversion.

Front Bumper spoiler



rear bumper



front bumper w/o the plate holder



ASSH Shot.



Before (Sealed Beams)



Fresh bumper with the H4 housings. :)

 
#7 ·
i started repairing the Fiberboard for my picknpull headliner. i havent touched it for about 2 weeks but this is what i have so far i need to repair 2 more corners then cover it.

But another member from a VW forum Brian01234 suggested using drywall tape and JB Weld to fix the corners. which has worked well so far..

i did strip the old material off that someone already recovered before today.. you can see what the material looks like infront of the foam i will be laiying down. it goes good with the power recaros, sunroof cover color, OEM dash, and the black parts. i will post pics when its done.



RF corner. before JB on bother pics..



RR corner

 
#8 ·
i got all the corners repaired, im going to give it a few days for the JB to set up. its not pretty but its on the top side so it wont be seen but it will be strong.

LR


RR


RF


LF


i met up with a guy that had some RED interior plastic, he had about 4 MK1s n a Porsche 914 and a MK4 out front. pretty sick MK1s. he ended up just giving me the parts for free. some rear trunk carpet, seat belt, parcel shelf that is pretty minty, and the plastic the parcel shelf sits on.
 
#9 ·
Finallllly got some work done on the GTI..

Front Rokkors are in along with the strut bearings from my Totaled rabbit with maybe 8K on them and also a strut bar I traded for my Ebay crosshairs that were off of the rabbit



AND then phase 2 the rear Coilovers. i was debating on just leaving the rear axle bushings but they were really bad so I changed them out and put in the polys that were in the rabbit.



allllll the brake lines need to be replaced, tire rod ends/boots, and sway bar bushings.. Ill be getting to those things in the next few weeks. I have tire rods/boots, balljounts, and control arm bushings ready to go in. just didnt have the motivation today lol.

I will be purchasing some smaller tires for it too. I was thinking 195/45s but i think im just going to go with 185/60s for the cheap factor.

I still need RED A pillar plastic so i can Cover this head liner!! hit me up!!
 
#13 ·
first layer, foamed out n trimmed up.



2nd layer untrimmed



I trimmed it and installed it yesterday kinda F^cked up in a few spots but this was my first so i wasnt expecting perfection.

My rear hatch seal had calk all around it and I pulled it off to put the rear fabric under it, and now it leaks not sure if it did before but it soaked the headliner i just put in..

Going to clean the the seal and mating surface today glue the headliner to the body n reseal the hatch seal today after work
 
#16 ·
PICS of the headliner.. installed visors and resealed the hatch seal a few days ago before the rain came.

still need to install the B-pillar plastic, Acquire some A-pillar plastic and install rear hook/hangers that go above the rear passenger windows.





This clean little Rabbit was parked illegally in front of my car the other day when I got off work. Was thinking about throwing a note on his car to see if he wanted to get rid of the 8" wide rims he had instead of a back seat ;)



185/60R14s back on the snowflakes. getting real seasonal in this B!TCH

 
#21 ·
Well im on the grind for the next few days 1.8 is and the 2.0 is nearly in. 2 mounts holding it in right now. I plan on completing this conversion in about 5 days. Should be pretty much plug n play. Gunna need to rewire the rear light harness, headlight switch and the clock on the cabby cluster. Should be running tomorrow ;)

 
#23 · (Edited)
VR is a lot of work to get into these cars. Either a lot of fab or a lot of Money you pick. The ABA is pretty much bolt in, splice and turn key. plus the VR is a lot heavier if you drove a stock MK1 daily and then did the 2.0 swap you wouldn't believe the difference, but you still feel the weight of the ABA in the front end.

My vert was fast with this swap in it. got to 120mph downhill. pretty scary haha.

The ABA is in, MK1 harness is removed and im starting to run wire. might have it running tomorrow. we will see though. still have a lot to do.
 
#26 ·
this is where im at now..



everything looks to be connected correctly and I just found the Fuel pump and sender grounds and wired them to the ABA harness..

it wont crank and im not getting signal past the #18 Fuse which is the Fuel Pump fuse and doesn't prime with the key on or run...

Maybe you MK3 guys can help me out. the Security system Is bypassed, I have a newer coilpack, ignition switch is kind of on the fence but the Throttle body actuates with the key on.
 
#29 ·
Ran through the fuse block with a test light.

30B has no power to it, fuse #18 for the fuel pump has no power to it. The wire for power to the fuel pump has no power to it.

I jumpered the Fuel Pump relay and the pump primes, Also disconnected the Ignition Switch and jumpered it. Got the starter to engage, Power to the throttle body, and accessories.

Bad ignition switch and FP relay? Could a bad FP relay cause no cranking? kinda lost here..

and does this Fuse Block look correct? from looking at AllData it looks like the ECU relay is missing but im unsure if there was one when it was previously running.
 
#32 ·
Next and final issue. no power to the gauge cluster... there was power prior to pulling this swap apart... im going to go through gauge cluster harness with a test light while looking at my Bentley but im unsure to why it would work previously and not now. from what I see in the Bentley there is no fuse for the cluster.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top