I am working on freshening up my big 90 horse motor in my Gti and ran into a few ?'s. First I seen something on Ebay that I never saw before. What does putting a warm up regulator from an Audi 5000 onto my motor do? It is bigger than my warm up regulator. Also I would like to go with a bigger cam. But I have no idea which one. And would I have to do any valve work with a bigger cam. I put my head in the machine shop and had it milled down and the valves checked and they are all in good shape. Not to much funding for this winters project so instead of doing a motor swap I just want to get what I can out of my little motor for this spring.
An Audi 5000 warm up regulator wont do a damn thing on your car. Waste of time.
A G-Grind cam shoud compliment your engine nicely.
__________________
-Aaron
Artwork that is only about wanting to be famous will never make you famous. Any fame is a bi-product of making something that means something. You don't go to a restaurant and order a meal because you want to have a shit. - Banksy
I didn't figure it would do anything but I just thought that I'd ask. Thanks. I hit that Euronation site you have in your replies and looked up the G-Grind cam. It says in there that it came in the 110hp GTI. Unfortunate for me mine didn't come with the G- cam. Where can I find out what all is different in the 2 cars motors that make the 20hp difference? Like I said I haven't really messed with motors in my 6 years of being into the Dubs. Anything else you can tell that would help me gain HP without spending 1000's. I know that I can't expect to hit real high numbers with the 1.8l 8v but I would like to come close to the 120-125 HP range.
Everything is different. The G-Grind only came in European spec GTIs. The 110hp figure is from the 1.6L 'Heron' motor. More compression, better cam, slightly different injection and a better flowing exhaust manifold and downpipe were the primary advantages over the US GTIs. Your shaved head should get you closer, as will switching to an earlier style 4-2 exhaust manifold and a Techtonics downpipe (you'll have to have a O2 sensor bung welded into the downpipe if your manifold came from anything but an '81-82 gas powered Rabbit). This should get you a bit closer to your goal.
__________________
-Aaron
Artwork that is only about wanting to be famous will never make you famous. Any fame is a bi-product of making something that means something. You don't go to a restaurant and order a meal because you want to have a shit. - Banksy
I was actually think of going with a header. Screw that piece of monkeys ass factory manifold with the close to impossible to get disconnected "C" clamp deal. I had the head milled down 11,000's. I have searched the web and read Eurotuner trying to see just what there is out there for the 1.8 as far as cranks,pistons valve ect. I used to have the Rocky Mountain Motorworks catalog which had some performance parts. Now thatthey switched to Mid American or whatever it is they only deal with air-cooled. I did see the high rev springs on Euronation. So any help on web sites for the MK1 dubs?
Crank, pistons, rods... none of them are worth the money for what you're doing. Maybe some MK2 high compression 8v pistons, but that's about it. Perhaps have some weight taken out of the crank and have the bottom end balanced properly.
Motorworks got taken down by VWoA in the big witchhunt a few years ago when they were murdering people for using any logo based on VW stuff. Places like Techtonics, Eurosport, Autotech, and of course.. me... AKA Euronation Motorsport are all good sources for 8v tuning.
If you ever have any questions about anything else... brakes, suspension, etc... fell from to hit me up on AIM.
__________________
-Aaron
Artwork that is only about wanting to be famous will never make you famous. Any fame is a bi-product of making something that means something. You don't go to a restaurant and order a meal because you want to have a shit. - Banksy
Okay for some reason the AIM isn't working on my end. Anyway, I just found out last night that I am gettting the G-Grind cam for X-Mas so that was some good news. I said about getting a header for on my GTI but now I am leaning towards the manifold and dual downpipe jus depends on what I can pick up cheaper. JC Whitney used to sell the Pacesetter header for VW"s but now Ican't find it. I bought one for a Scirocco I had years ago but I traded it with the motor for some rims for my Jetta I had. As for the cam, I am alright using it with stock valves and springs right? I wish now that I wouldn't have rushed putting my head in the shop. I should of saved a little more cash and bought new valves and high rev springs. They are not real expensive. By the way the cam is being ordered from your website. Try now to make it take to long to ship.HAHA Also you said about gettingthe bottom end balanced and crank lightened. Is this something the machine shop can do? And do you kow on average what this runs to get done. I'll have to take a pic of my car and place it on here sometime.
When installing A bigger throttle body is it possible for me to bore out the manifold myself or do I need to take it somewhere? If I can do it myself what can I do it with? I'm thinking that I can do it with a dremmel tool.
When installing A bigger throttle body is it possible for me to bore out the manifold myself or do I need to take it somewhere? If I can do it myself what can I do it with? I'm thinking that I can do it with a dremmel tool.
i've had good luck with a dremmel in the past, it's an exercise in futility as you will go through about 1,000,000 sanding drums, i've moved up to a die grinder and carbide grinding bits and a little polishing.
Now for the next question. Is there any specific way to do this. Or do I just grind out the manifold so the hole matches up to the throttle body. I figure all I have to do is grind the outside and kind of taper the hole inward. Am I right or wrong??????
grab a gasket from the larger throttle body and trace it onto the flange. Grind it out so it matches up. Try to keep your taper at a minimum.
__________________
-Aaron
Artwork that is only about wanting to be famous will never make you famous. Any fame is a bi-product of making something that means something. You don't go to a restaurant and order a meal because you want to have a shit. - Banksy
Okay, I have my cam and motor mounts and am ready to order my gasket kit and hose kit. I am still in search of a dual outlet manifold. I found some for a mk2 but I'm not sure if they will work. So I need to know if they will or not. I thought the head from the mk1 and mk2 were the same. Please tell me they will work....... I'd really like to put an end to the hardest part so far of this project. If this doesn't work I am probabley going back to the original plan of a header.
You can use a MK2 manifold but ONLY if you buy the special TT downpipe and shift lever that allow you to do so... which is about $375.
__________________
-Aaron
Artwork that is only about wanting to be famous will never make you famous. Any fame is a bi-product of making something that means something. You don't go to a restaurant and order a meal because you want to have a shit. - Banksy
Okay, now everything I need is on it's way. Now I am trying to make my own sure shifter and short shifter. I have the sure shifter already figured out and am in the process of finishing it tomorrow. I looked at Euro Sport for a guide to do this. The only thing I can't figuire out is on the short shifter should the flat piece be longer than stock or shorter for the shorter shifts. I am thinking longer but not 100% sure so I thought that maybe I could get the help I need here. Also I have custom made an air intake for the GTI. Hopefully I'll have this done within the next 2 weeks so I'll have to put the pics on when I get it done.
. The only thing I can't figuire out is on the short shifter should the flat piece be longer than stock or shorter for the shorter shifts. I am thinking longer but not 100% sure so I thought that maybe I could get the help I need here.
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