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| MK1 Discussion area for the first generation VW Golf (Rabbit) and Jetta produced from 1975 to 1984 including Cabriolet and pickup models. |
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Hi everyone...newbie here
I just got an '81 VW Pickup Caddy, Diesel, 5-spd from my Unc. Anyway, if anyone can share some info on how I can restore and lightly modify the looks of this fun toy, please reply. So far my goal is to make it look nicer outside, nothing overboard, just want to restore the look and maybe add a lip spoiler and nicer wheels (14" max) Here are some Qs: 1.Where can I get a front or lower lip for this thing? 2.How can I lower the back? It seems to ride much higher than front. 3.Also, where can I get or make a tonneau cover? 4.Anyone suggest some nice wheels for this? I wanna keep it below 14". Anyway, if you have suggestions or websites where I can get parts..Let me know! Thanks!! ![]() or try this link: http://community.webshots.com/user/fulltymer |
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First and foremost welcome to VWF...you will find this is a great place to learn, share and chill.
As for your Caddy...looks to be in great shape I want one myself. 1. With the Caddy you will find that most MK1 Rabbit Bumper will fit. Rieger makes some nice stuff http://www.rpiequipped.com/store/c192195.2.html 2. As for lowering there is much you can do. Since you probally have the stock suspension on I would suggest do this first. You can go with a combo adjustable kit such as Koni or to save a few bucks get some lower spring and some decent shocks such as Billstien. 3. Tonneau cover eh? If you are in the area my Father makes them hit me up with a PM or email if interested. 4. Wheels! When I get my caddy I'm going with some fat ass 15" Schmidt's ![]() Checkout - http://www.german-wheels.com Best of luck and keep us posted!!! |
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nice truck. I've always wanted one, not too many around here that aren't completely rusted out though. I'd say, do what Dave suggested. Upgrade the suspension first. Then, I'd put on some euro bumpers, metal or plastic. It won't make the front end look as heavy. I'm pretty sure the front bumper is a direct bolt on, but the rear bumper requires some modification.
If you don't go with the tonneau cover, maybe doing a roll on bedliner. I did one on my F250 work truck and i'm really happy with how it turned out. It takes a lot of prep work to do it right though. I sandblasted then primered the bed before i put it in. It looks really good when it's done and is really tough. The kit cost about $35, I needed two for the full size longbox, but you would be able to do it with one. Good luck with the project.
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1992 Jetta Turbo Diesel...plug and play |
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Quote:
2. There are a few ways I've seen it done. Some more shady than others. I like my solution the best. a. The first way is to flip the axle over the springs. You'll have to weld new perches to the axle and do something about the shocks being to long. The problem here is that now the back is REALLY low. This is a great solution for european spec trucks because they were a good 2" higher in the back than our US ones, but over here it's only for someone who wants it LOW, like tucking an inch of tire in the back low. I've also heard of "wandering" issue on the freeway because the rear alignment almost never comes out right. You'll have to cut the bumpstops. b. Remove the center leaf spring. It will bring you down to almost level. This is a decent solution except that it kills your load capacity. I haul motors in my truck, and it's been used to move a couch and a bunch of other heavy crap. You will bottom it out like this. You'll have to cut the bumpstops. c. My solution. I made 1/2" thick steel plates that bolt to the ends of the axle in place of the stub axles. If you have a hard time visualizing this then go look under your truck (or car for that matter) and have a look at how the stub axle bolts to the beam). They move the stub axles up a little over 2". Because I used 1/2" thick plate and grade 10.9 fasteners there's no chance of then bending or breaking. I don't lose any travel, or load capacity (or spring rate, so the truck still handles good). It sits level with Neuspeeds and Bilsteins in the front. The downfalls. Going any higher than 2.5 inches means using flathead hardware, no biggie, and I didn't care because I wanted 2.5". The other problem is that it moves the wheels out 1/2" on each side which will make most factory 14" wheels and aftermarket 15" wheels rub. Rolling the lip helps, or finding wheels designed for a MK3 which have more offset. 3. Dave's dad 4. Factory wheels in 14" include, off the top of my head: snowflakes (83-86 GTI/GLI, cabriolet and scirocco) bottle caps (late '86-87 GTI, GLI) teardrops ('87 and up GTI/GLI, cabriolet and scirocco) la castellets (Jetta Carat and clipper cabriolets) orlandos (MK3s with alloys)
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-Aaron Artwork that is only about wanting to be famous will never make you famous. Any fame is a bi-product of making something that means something. You don't go to a restaurant and order a meal because you want to have a shit. - Banksy |
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Wow, thanks for the comments and suggestions...didnt think I would get some in-depth info (i used to have a nitrous honda and all i heard on forums were VTEC this and that and no technical stuff whatsoever)...they are all well appreciated and Im definitely taking notes
db-if I get desperate for a cover..ill take the long trip down to ur dad's shop Fourt1thirty-I just might try your lowering method, i have access to a fabrication shop and autoshop tailpipesmokeshow-not sure what a roll over bedliner is yet but ill do the research if its only about $35 I pretty much have a plan laid out....Im definitely gonna keep it simple but attractive...I saw a caddy with the Corrado winter wheels, which I thought looked pretty nice and clean. Keep those comments,suggestions, and pics going!! Ill be sure to post mine |
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