Easy. Bulbs from your local dealership. Replace all of them at the same time. They're cheap.
By "enviro ctl panel lights" I assume you mean the heater control panel. You can't replace the bulb. Big design flaw. However, you can drill out the old one and replace it with an LED (use a resistor to step down the voltage).
Now, the fun part. To remove the instrument cluster you'll need to remove the aforementioned "enviro ctl panel", the radio, the switches and then remove ALL the screws from the fascia (for that is it's proper name). One or two are not apparent so DON'T yank it out or you'll break the plastic tabs and you'll have a wobbly piece of plastic which will smirk at you every time you drive.
After you remove the fascia, you can remove the instrument cluster. There are only two screws - but before you can remove it you'll have to disconnect the speedometer cable. Do this from the transmission as it's actually easier than hanging upside down and trying to cram your big hand into the tiny space under the dash. If you do try to remove the cable from the cluster you most likely will break the clip that holds it in place.
And now, the most important advice: Go out right now and buy the Bentley manual for the car. It is invaluable if you're going the DIY route. You'll save a fortune in the long run - and, believe me, you will spend a fortune on this car. I do.
Cheers.
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