Engine Temperature + thermostat issues (LOTS OF CONTENT) - Page 7 - VW Forum :: Volkswagen Forum
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post #91 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 03:46 PM
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I have a 1998 VW Golf that was over heating slowly. First thing I replaced was the Thermastat. Than I replaced radiator coolant switch and Coolant sensor that is mounted on the coolant Flange. The car still over heated slowly I checked all fuses and relays they all seemed to be good. The Top Radiator hose got hot and I could feel water running threw it while it was getting super hot. The Bottom hose didnt get very hot and fans only worked when the A/c was on. Which lead me to believe my Radiator was plugged. I took off the top hose and blew in it it seemed to be working fine i could here the air come out on the other end.
Conclusion:
1. I found a wire that wasnt connected under the round Coolant expansion tank (where you put fluid). I hooked it up and immediately i heard the fans turn on.
2.) Started the car while letting it run for a few minutes unscrewed the radiator coolant switch to see if water was circulating nothing was circulating but when i started screwing it back in water stated to shoot out of it like its suppose to. Long story short a had a loose wire under the Fan control module and air bubble in the radiator that stopped the air from circulating.

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post #92 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luism_12x View Post
My temp light comes on even though my coolant level is good(no leaks), expansion tank sensor is good, new thermostat in(works great), new fan motor, and my car does not overheat(stays at about 195F). I tried jumping the radiator fan via the radiator switch with a paper clip and only the low speed worked. I check all the fuses(all good), but I noticed that my fan control module on has one fuse. Am I missing one that goes there or is my module going bad? Please help asap. I have looked online everywhere and not getting an luck in finding an answer or even people with my problem.
Fan module only has one fuse. Check your engine coolant temperature sensor and replace it.
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post #93 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 04:07 PM
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I changed out the coolant temperature sensor (looked kinda bad), but still fans are not working. I jumped them again but only the low fan speed works.
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post #94 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 08:50 AM
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New to this forum and hopefully I'm posting in the correct area. I have done a lot of work to this 97 jetta gls 2.0 aba that I picked up for hella cheap. I was able to clear all of the codes and the thing runs beautifully now with only a couple of issues left so here goes.

new water pump, thermostat, coolant fan, coolant fan switch, Fan control module, and ECT. Overheating still when driving. I have jumped the fan switch and both high and low speed work but the fan will not come on at all when plugged in. All new components and no corrosion on any of the contacts. I have cleaned all the grounds except for the negative battery ground to the trans which I have literally just read about so I will be doing that today. All the fuses and relays are good and in the correct places.
The heat in the cabin is luke warm from the vents so I am wondering if there may be some air trapped in the system. What may be a good way to burp this baby and make her cry? could I relieve pressure from the fan switch to see if it weeps water or air?
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post #95 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Just sounds like air in the system. I always just let it burp itself by just driving it. After i drive it, i let it cool then crack the cap open and let the air vent.
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post #96 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 04:19 PM
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Thank you for the reply Mr. Mcrow.

I see you are the coolant master after reading through a lot of these threads. --smiles-- I have driven it a couple of times, only for short rides, to try that very suggestion. But with no avail, I get the same results each time. Just to be sure, the t-stat does go in spring end block side right? I just finished cleaning up the negative battery cable ground on the trans bell housing(and it definitely needed it). I may go try this burping ride again and this time take note of any hot and cold hoses.

once again thank you.
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post #97 of 97 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 05:26 PM
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ok so after the ride I have noticed a couple of things. This time I let the temp get up to 230 and then it quickly shot back down to around 170 and then back up to 230. It did this like a short in the system, not like the coolant had circulated. Pulled back into the driveway and checked the fluid bulb. No change in the fluid level and the lower rad hose is bone cold. All other hoses are hot. I do know the water pump is working because as I accelerate, the air coming from the vents gets warmer and then cooler as I decelerate.
After all this, I unscrewed the coolant bulb cap to relieve the pressure to see if any change in the level occurs. Remembering a few posts about an o-ring that should be around the threads of the cap...I have none. Could I be loosing valuable pressure causing this problem?
But even still, the lower rad hose is cold with a new t-stat and pump.
Not sure if they would be related, but would the A/C refrigerant pressure have anything to do with the fans not coming on at all? Just something I read in an older post from a guy that had almost the exact same issues.
I hope this is the correct place to be posting these questions. As a noob here I'm still trying to figure it all out.

Thank you again.

Last edited by jmcp77; 11-28-2013 at 06:48 PM.
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