What is wrong with my engine?

[n1nj4d3wd]

Here's the story: I bought a 1997 Golf Jazz last summer. It's got a 2.0 8v It's a hot car. I really loved it. Anyways, about 5 months after I bought it, I get home, the thing is rattling like crazy. I have no clue why. So I took this thing to the shop, they said it's got the death rattle and it'll be cheaper to swap out the engine. They mentioned something about Lifters. I don't know.

The price they quoted me to fix it was like $1500+ not counting in the price of a new engine. I didn't (and still don't) have that kind of cash since I'm still paying for the darn thing. I was hoping someone in here might have an idea of a possible fix. I'm tired of making payments on a car I can't drive. It's really crappy.


My friend and I are prepared to take the time and fix it ourselves if possible. Any input is welcome.


Here's some YouTube videos of the engine rattling:


This is the first video I took. This is within a week of the engine first starting to rattle:

YouTube - Golf Mk3 with Engine Problems

This is a video I took last night. I've got my dad revving the engine. It's kinda hard to hear in the video but the rattling get worse and faster when he steps on the accelerator.

YouTube - '97 Golf 2.0 Liter Engine Troubles

[BadBradokc]

Pop off your timing belt cover and check the timing belt and tensioner. I got my '96 Jetta GL in Feb. and went to check the tb and the tensioner was frozen up due to the water pump leaking out the weephole. That is a interference engine, when the tb breaks it bends the valves.

[halfofnothing]

Originally Posted by BadBradokc

That is a interference engine, when the tb breaks it bends the valves.

not true

[keehn]

Your engine sounds pretty much like mine did when I changed the timing belt. I don't know if your problem is similar. However, in my situation, the problem was the distributor rotor wasn't lined up at #1 plug with camshaft lined up at TDC. Also, make sure you check that your plug wires are in the order 1,3,4,2 (clockwise on distributor, #1 is closest to engine block, #1 cylinder is closest to timing belt cover).

To check your distributor, pull off the top timing belt cover, take a socket wrench with I think a 16mm? socket and manually turn the camshaft sprocket until "OT" is lined up with the arrow on the inner timing belt cover. Then pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at the engine and the long edge is parallel with the sensor plug at the base of the distributor. If it is not, then you will have to remove the lower timing belt cover and either replace the belt/tensioner or readjust (IMO I'd just replace...since I'm in there already). An excellent write up of this procedure can be found at:

MKIII Timing Belt and full water pump page.

Also, double check your spark, pull the plugs and test them one at a time. If you have little or no spark on any/all plugs, pull the ignition coil (located on firewall...just follow the ignition plug from the distributor) and check for cracks.

Finally, does your check engine light flash (or is steady) when the engine is on? If you have an OBDII reader, please list the readout(s) here. It will help myself and anybody else help you diagnose the problem.

[Handeye]

If the firing order was off, the engine would buck while it was attempting to stay running.

It must be from the camera lens, but in the vids it looks like the alternator is not square with the engine.


Did you notice any performance loss when you were driving it when the rattle started?

[BadBradokc]

Originally Posted by halfofnothing

not true

Yeh, Well, I have seen the tb break and took the head off and saw that the valves were all bent and badly dented the piston crowns. The tb broke while it was idling.

[keehn]

Originally Posted by Handeye

If the firing order was off, the engine would buck while it was attempting to stay running.

Possibly. However, I can only relate to my experience. I guess my engine was rather well-mannered (all things considered) when plugs 2 and 3 were switched around. It just idled rough and drove around the parking lot with as much power as a Geo metro

All seriousness though, his engine sounds pretty much like mine did; like marbles are rolling around in the block. To rehash my previous post, when I ultimately replaced the ignition coil (and corrected the plug wire sequence), that's when the problem went away. Is that the fix in this situation? I don't know. I'd hate to see the guy have to replace a potentially good engine just because he didn't check obvious trouble spots first.

OP: if you can provide OBDII codes, that would make diagnosis a LOT easier.

[BadBradokc]

IF you checked the tb, and ok, sounds like broken hydraulic lifters. Prob never changed the oil, from previous owner. Pop off the cam and check the lifters. My 87 chevy s-10 did the same thing sounded crunchy, (because of the original owner never changed the oil) and 5 of 12 of the lifters were smashed. Just trying to help. Would help if you knew the history, and maintenace of the car. (whats been replaced or worked on)

[halfofnothing]

Originally Posted by BadBradokc

Yeh, Well, I have seen the tb break and took the head off and saw that the valves were all bent and badly dented the piston crowns. The tb broke while it was idling.

and i've seen a guy wearing a skirt, but the fact still remains he doesn't have a vagina, this engine is non-interfering.

[omfg]