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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 2000 Jetta Battery Draw

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum. Came over from the vortex and I just couldn't fix this electrical draw I'v been having with my Jetta 2.0.

So I'v been having this problem for months now and it's a draw from last I check wire S176 on the battery fuse box under the hood. Right now I have the whole battery box on a big fuse so when I'm gonna be out of my car for awhile I pull the fuse and then put it back in when I get back into the car. It sucks because it resets everything in my car every time.

I'v replaced many parts try to fix this but with not much luck. I'v done a alternator, a new battery, a CCM, a load reduction relay, the drivers door latch was bad so I replaced that, I'v checked all the fuses on the fuse box on the side of the dash. That's all I think I have done so far. Any help would be much appreciated thank you.

Last edited by H0r0k0; 12-23-2012 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Add information
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:50 PM
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Connect an ammeter between the positive battery terminal and the positive battery cable. Let the car go into "sleep" mode. That could take up to 15 minutes after you remove the key and close ALL doors. Record you current draw. You should see approximately 50 mA when in sleep mode. If you get a reading much higher, like 200 mA or more, you would then start to pull fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that is drawing the excess current. That will point you in the right direction.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2001Jettagls View Post
Connect an ammeter between the positive battery terminal and the positive battery cable. Let the car go into "sleep" mode. That could take up to 15 minutes after you remove the key and close ALL doors. Record you current draw. You should see approximately 50 mA when in sleep mode. If you get a reading much higher, like 200 mA or more, you would then start to pull fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that is drawing the excess current. That will point you in the right direction.

I have done this before and with no luck... Fuse S176 goes to the relay panel under the dash. I took out the load reduction relay and it was my best bet so i replaced it and the car was dead in the morning. Could it be window regulators?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 08:44 AM
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What do you mean by "no luck"?

Were you able to get a reading of how much current was flowing out of the battery?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001Jettagls View Post
Connect an ammeter between the positive battery terminal and the positive battery cable. Let the car go into "sleep" mode. That could take up to 15 minutes after you remove the key and close ALL doors. Record you current draw. You should see approximately 50 mA when in sleep mode. If you get a reading much higher, like 200 mA or more, you would then start to pull fuses one at a time until you find the circuit that is drawing the excess current. That will point you in the right direction.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-24-2012, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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What do you mean by "no luck"?

Were you able to get a reading of how much current was flowing out of the battery?
I have done that before and i pulled every fuse and it didnt bring the draw down.

Is there any chance of it being window regulators? Thats what i was thinking to try next
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 07:06 PM
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Is there any chance of it being window regulators? Thats what i was thinking to try next
Yes it could be the window regulators but only if......

When you pulled the fuse for the power windows, did the current draw drop?
If yes, then it could be a window regulator.
If no, then I would look elsewhere.

If you pulled all the fuses, hopefully not all at once, and still couldn't get the current draw to drop, the next thing I would try is to disconnect the wires in the distribution box located on top of the battery, again one at a time, to see if that gets the current flow to drop.

By the way, you haven't given us any numbers to work with. How much current flow are you seeing? Also make sure to keep all doors closed and the key out of the ignition. If you have the hood and driver door open, use a large screwdriver to close the latches so the car will think that they are closed.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 07:07 PM
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2001Jettagls View Post
Yes it could be the window regulators but only if......

When you pulled the fuse for the power windows, did the current draw drop?
If yes, then it could be a window regulator.
If no, then I would look elsewhere.

If you pulled all the fuses, hopefully not all at once, and still couldn't get the current draw to drop, the next thing I would try is to disconnect the wires in the distribution box located on top of the battery, again one at a time, to see if that gets the current flow to drop.

By the way, you haven't given us any numbers to work with. How much current flow are you seeing? Also make sure to keep all doors closed and the key out of the ignition. If you have the hood and driver door open, use a large screwdriver to close the latches so the car will think that they are closed.
I pulled all the fuses on the side fuse box and nothing dropped. I have not pulled the fuse for the window regulators yet, been kinda busy lately.
I have pulled each wire on the box on the battery thats how i figured out it was wire S176 which goes to the interior relay panel which if i remember has the window regulator fuses on it.
I havent given any number because i dont remember what they were as i was with my mechanic at the time of doing it. He is a TDI specialist that has been giving me as much help as he can on my 2.slow
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 09:47 AM
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Ok....so the next thing is to hook up the ammeter again, and start pulling 1 relay or fuse at a time from the interior relay panel that S176 supplies.

Do you have access to wiring diagrams? That S176 may also supply something else. You need to trace it on the diagrams to cover all your bases.

Be patient. Electrical problems are extremely frustrating. Again, be sure to record the current draw as you do this.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2001Jettagls View Post
Ok....so the next thing is to hook up the ammeter again, and start pulling 1 relay or fuse at a time from the interior relay panel that S176 supplies.

Do you have access to wiring diagrams? That S176 may also supply something else. You need to trace it on the diagrams to cover all your bases.

Be patient. Electrical problems are extremely frustrating. Again, be sure to record the current draw as you do this.
Yea my mechanic has the Bently Manual. Ill do that next time i go to see him and post the results then
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 11:51 AM
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I just looked in my Bently manual. It's not easy to read the wiring diagrams there.

Best of luck to you.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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I just looked in my Bently manual. It's not easy to read the wiring diagrams there.

Best of luck to you.
Yea i dont own the manual myself, my mechanic does and luckily he understand it all and knows how to read it lol.. We just dont know what to do from here lol
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 12:11 PM
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Do you have the factory radio or a aftermarket with amps and such.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have the factory radio or a aftermarket with amps and such.
Aftermarket radio and amp. I bought the radio harness from best buy for a VW and I hooked up the amp right
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