Dallas' MK4 jetta build

[Shameless]

Well you just added about 100 foot pounds of torque to your motor between the exhaust tune and turbo. Your clutch and axles got a nice wake up. Should be ok with the new clutch and an oem axel though.

[stealthpassat]

02j clutches are weak
go vr clutch with g60 fly wheel you won't regret it

[fukn_dubn_gti]

this is exactly what i like to see.

someone new.. someone learning as they go. and someone who is doing it right!

saving money and doing it right the first time and fixing maitnanence before going onto mods. That.. is def in for more info on this !

in the local area.. i tell every 1.8t guy the same scenario.. if the clutch goes or you replace.. and you dont do a massive turbo..
go vr6 clutch and a 14lb flywheel..

faster spool of the turbo then the factory 20lb.. but alot less chattering noise compared to the extremely light flywheels.'

or you could juts over kill it.. and go with a clutch masters stage 3 and just know your solid.. and can launch / dump it / burns out and know the clutch will be one of the last things to go before trans / axles etc.

[dallas257]

I knew it was going to go sooner or later, just wished it didnt happen right now im pretty strapped for cash. I ended up going with the ecs tuning stage 2 with 14lb flywheel for the exact reason you were saying fukn.

[Pssst...passed you]

Originally Posted by stealthpassat

go vr clutch with g60 fly wheel you won't regret it

I resemble this remark. Exact setup I installed.

[dallas257]

Alright so I got my car back Wednesday and went strait to my buddies place to finally get the turbo in. Got there pretty late so we ended up getting done late Thursday. So the turbo is officially in and running. First thing I noticed was boy does it spool fast! That being said Im having some hiccups, and Im not sure the causes.

First problem is miss firing. I put new spark plugs in and gapped them to .028 which is what I swear I have read to gap them to if you run a bigger turbo. It was running terrible so I popped them out to widen the gap a little, and they were just coated black. So I went down to auto zone picked up new iridium ngk plugs and gapped those to .030 and it is better, but not gone so I guess open the gap a little more?

Second problem is weird boost/power. Some times I will hit boost and as soon as I do the car will lurch, boost will drop off completely, then come right back and repeat until I take my foot off the gas. I don't know what the deal is.

Third problem and most alarming is my car will just shut off while driving. It doesn't seem to have a pattern as to when it decided to shut off other than it seems to happen around 5psi. It happens maybe once or twice a day. I scanned the car and Iv got a code saying "ecm processor failure." Could it be happening because my ecm is going bad?

Other than all that. Im loving the turbo and the set up. Im happy to say I have successfully put everything on that I have for now. Im going to have to give it a rest on buying stuff for a while. On a side note. Any one want to buy a ko3s, oem intercooler, oem manifold, or headlights?

Here is the turbo next to the old one its the only picture I took while working on the car .

[stealthpassat]

Problem 1 you are going to laugh when I tell you this….
I was having spark blow just as you are at WOT with the srt first thing I did was gap the plugs car ran a little better misfire was going but still got blow out at wot second thing I did was swap out the iridiums for champion coppers my gap is going to different than yours more power, more fuel moar boost and a bigger motor but gap the plugs to .034-.037 you will see a difference.

As for problem two tell me more about your problem it could be related to problem one (spark blow out). Does it pop at wot once you reach full boost? Or does it feel like its just instant power than you hit a wall. Also depending on the boost your ecu may not like it or you could be running slightly lean get a wideband set up and measure your a/fs.

[dallas257]

Thats about the stock gap right? I figured Id just keep widening the gap until it went away, but I was just scratching my head over it because I swear I read that I wanted a .028 gap for my set up.

[stealthpassat]

well with the srts i was told to lower gap with more boost but you said it seems to be getting better as you increase the gap so go with a wider gap and if it isn't doing the trick go with a smaller gap

[dallas257]

Yeah its definitely better the bigger the gap. Problem 2 its like hitting a wall when the boost hits. Ill hit boost for a second then wall, then boost again then wall. I was thinking maybe my dv was starting to open, but I don't believe this is the case since most of the time I can hold the boost just fine.

[stealthpassat]

No boost leak? i could be wrong I've never owned a 1.8t vw but n75 valve?

[dallas257]

I don't believe there is a boost leak because I have a steady increase in boost and I hold boost no problem. Yes there is a n75 valve, but It isn't plumbed because unitronics says " In addition, a manual or electronic boost controller is necessary with our Stage 2+ Frankenturbo specific software due to the fact that these turbocharger units are not shipped with a standardized wastegate pre-load setting. As a result, we are unable to tune for use with the N75 valve." Thats strait from their website. A little update I was saying that the car shuts off, but I was mistaken I believe it is going into heavy limp mode. It happened 4 times today as usual it was when I just hit boost. Ive tried to replicate it, but I can't even if I just floor it in first all the way through the gears.

[dallas257]

Ok i took for a drive and experimented, and was finally able to replicate the shut off/ limp mode. Im not sure which it is because the car is on I can hear that its on, but i cant actually drive at all. I managed to repeat the problem when i was in second with enough gas to build boost but not wot. Now that i know this it seems like its possible its related to fuel/spark?

[XxBORAxX]

I hate that damn epc light...

[dallas257]

Alright guys I went ahead and scanned my codes again to see if anything changed, and sure enough I have 2 new codes which I think will explain my issues.
P0106-MAP/ barometric pressure circuit range/performance
P0238-Turbo boost senser "A" circuit high
I also have this one which is weird and not sure if its related to my tune
P0606- ECM processor failure

So it seems to me that the map is bad which I believe would explain the limp mode and pretty much everything I believe. Because the car doesn't know what pressure its getting so its messing up the a/f ratio...right? Any thoughts out there?