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MK4 Discussion area for the new fourth generation Golf IV, 337, R32, 20th and Jetta IV produced from 1998 to 2004.5 including Cabrio models.

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Old 02-24-2013, 10:07 AM
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Next, i would measure the gap between the pick up tube and the bottom of the pan.

It's possible that the tube was bent downward, and may be too close or even touching the bottom of the pan, again, blocking the oil flow.

Did you inspect the pickup tube, possibly it was bent upward and cracked, allowing air to be drawn into the pump?

Your running out of options in the "quick fix" department. Hope this helps and solves the problem.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:53 AM
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Did you end up using a pan from a different engine?
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:26 PM
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i found a pan local here, the guy bought it brand new for his 1.8t and realized it didnt fit and didnt feel like returning it so he just sold it to me.. the pick up tube is fine it has no leaks anywhere and its not bent down to far so its touching the pan as you can see in the picture and its not to high as the top of the pick up tube barely comes to the bottom of the dipstick

should i not check my head for clogs? i already have my whole intake off and was getting ready to pull my valve cover
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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So I pulled it all apart in tryin to make sense if this, here's my head, I have holes in the top left corner, top right corner, one on bottom center, and one just to the left of it, I'm assuming the top left corner hole is the oil feed line where all the oil comes in and it drains through the rest, right?
Here's the whole head


This is the whole in the top left where I'm assuming the oil comes in


This is the top right hole, I'm assuming a drain hole


These are the bottom two holes, although in this pic you can only see the center one not
The one to the left, I guess these are also drain, cooling lines?


How could I check in these? Softly probe with a metal wire? The one hole should go straight to the pump, correct? Or could I pull my spark plugs and turn it over and see if I have oil coming up? What should I do?
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:59 AM
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Those are all oil drain holes. You cannot see the oil supply galleys unless you remove the camshaft.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:14 PM
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Oh ok, will the oil supply lines be pretty obvious when I pull the cams? I'll do that tonight when I get home.. so I guess theres no way to turn the engine over and see if its pumping oil?
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:37 AM
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make sure to mark the cam when u take it out or ur going to have a really fun time trying to get the timing right.

and if your going to go as far as taking the cams out u might wanna invest in some plastigauge and check your bearings in the head. also wont hurt to pop off one of the rod caps and the main journal cap on the crank and check the clearances im at work now but when i get home i can check to see if i can find u the specs for the clearances. also if any metal or anything did get sucked up into the oil galleys chances are it clogged the galley or has already messed up one of your bearings because it got fed thru the oil port on your crank or cam
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:22 PM
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Did you get an oil pressure light on when you busted the pan? Or did you get the car shut off before then?
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:41 PM
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Just a question since its somewhat in this category. What type of oil do you guys think is best to run? I'm gonna do an oil change in the next couple of days and figured id ask your opinions. Dumb question, but this is the first VW I've ever owned and I've been told that you can only run certain types of fluids or it could cause damage.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:16 AM
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I run Castrol Edge 5w40. I know others run Mobil 1 0w40. Full synth is important. And it needs to meet VW 501.00 spec I believe (can't remember the number off hand). Those are the two most common from what I've seen and Autozone/Advanced Auto tend to run specials on them. We got a flyer from Advanced yesterday and this month its 5 qts of Mobil 1 and a filter for $33. I typically pick up Castrol when they run the deal on that. I actually got it on BOGO last month.

I also run the larger Passat 1.8T filter. Adds more oil to the system...I fill it up with a full 5qts now.
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:18 PM
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Here's what happen: when you damaged your oil pan and lost all of the oil you then drove the car with no oil causing internal damage to your engine. Once you replaced your oil pan you then drove your car with a clogged pick up tube and preventing ( or minimizing ) oil from circulating through the engine. Your engine is running poor and wants to stall because the pistons are binding up due to the lack of oil. The metal filings are coming from your rod and main bearings due to the lack of oil. The tapping noise is the lack of oil. Everything will look ok when you remove the pan and do an inspection but the damage it there and well hidden. You would have to dismantle the engine in order to see it. This is my opinion!

My recommendation : don't waste any more time or money on this engine, get another one. In the future if you ever damage your oil pan do not start the engine because it has no more oil in it and will cost you mucho $$$.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:17 AM
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this is very true once you starve your engine of oil you basically destroy the engine. the best route to go is getting a junkyard motor with low miles. go and contact your local junkyards u might get lucky and find something.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:05 PM
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You mentioned a junk yard engine for $200-$300. This may be a good deal if you can hear it run in the car prior to removal, also see the mileage. I don't know what junkyard engines cost in other parts of the country but by me they are usually $1000 or higher for a good engine that was electronically documented on removal. This is done in most reputable salvage yards, if they don't have an electronic record then I would stay away from it.

It sucks to install an engine just to find out that it has problems, them you have to do the work twice.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:38 AM
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theres two big junkyards by me that take in every single car thats wrecked or totaled in the chicagoland area. rockford auto and liberty auto wreckers
both companies document removal and milage all the good stuff and thier parts are really cheap i found a 1.8t block for 400 just last week thru liberty actually thinkin of getting it to put in as my daily motor. the more common 16v or 2.0l is going to be cheaper. but this is with all my shop discounts and i dont have to pay tax on parts..

but you are right in most places of the country u will not find a junkyard motor for under 700-1000.
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