Damn I didn't think 1k would get me very far. I also didn't think about starting out with just the downpipe. I spent yesterday reading the DIYs so I'll spend today reading the mk4 1.8t faq
Damn I didn't think 1k would get me very far. And I didn't think about just starting with a downpipe for the exhaust. My whp goal is 250-300. Don't really care to go above 300. I spent yesterday reading the DIYs so I'll spend today reading the mk4 1.8t FAQ. (Lot of spare time. I'm laid off until march) So if I'm going with a stage 2 tune, I should install the dv, dp and all that first right? thats what i got out of the Faq. I'll probably buy all the parts at once but just in case.
Edit: I guess I already said some of that last night and didn't remember lol
The tuning doesn't do much except change the fuel map, ignition timing and boost level via the electronic valves.
If you run a stage 2, without the parts for stage 2, you'll be fine.
For most tunes you will only need the down pipe for stage 2.
Downpipe is the next biggest cheap thing you can do for the car after a tune. the stock downpipe is just silly.
Between the turbo inlet pipe and down pipe, stage two. You should gain a pretty noticeable horsepower increase, well more like a slap in the face.
Should make 240-250BHP/180ishWHP off this.
250 WHP isn't possible with stock turbo with all the bolt ons and waste-gate cranked
You'll need at least a ko4 turbo, full turbo back, FMIC, turbo inlet pipe, ko4 tune, 4 bar fuel pressure regulator to make 250hp/280lb-ft on 93 octane gas.
300WHP Is probably completely out of the ko4s range.
Once you hit those numbers you need to start looking at forged rods before you bend one.
Small turbos spool up fast so you hit huge torque at a low rpm, before the engine actually gets spinning and has momentum. This dramatic change in piston velocity puts tremendous pressure on the piston rods and they bend under the force. Imagine walking and getting ready to go for a jog and once you hit 1/4th your max output, a 350 pound linebacker rushes you from behind.
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Originally Posted by groundupjetta
speed without looks is as useful as a girl without tits
Makes sense. Well that type of power is in the very distant possible future. I'm good with spending $1k for now. It'll still have to be a dd. I was looking at the unitronics stage 2 and its only $100 more than the stage one. But I was going to shoot for a 91 octane tune. Could I just get my stock ecu tuned to stage 2?
Yes, it's a flash so basically you drive to a shop, they plug into your car, 20 minutes later you're done.
However stage 2 requires 93 octane fuel. Might want to make sure you've got lots of 93 octane stations within your area. I know I can barely go anywhere because right by my house is the only place with 93 haha.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groundupjetta
speed without looks is as useful as a girl without tits
However stage 2 requires 93 octane fuel. Might want to make sure you've got lots of 93 octane stations within your area. I know I can barely go anywhere because right by my house is the only place with 93 haha.
I'm pretty sure 93 octane is limited here too but I'll check around. VW enthusiasts seem to be limited around here too lol. I think I'm right in the middle of Honda country. This will definitely get fun!
Stage 2 tune, DD42 value line downpipe, turbo inlet pipe, cone filter, 4 bar fuel pressure regulator and forge/apr DV/splitter.
(I'm getting a turbosmart "dual port" myself, they're much bigger than forge splitter and will support turbos up to 600 horsepower on full recirculation, but this guy cost 300$+.)
For the downpipe, is DD42 the brand? Sorry to sound ignorant but I don't have much experience with quality brands. I found this one VW Mk4 1.8T Value Line 3" Downpipe
I just didn't know wether I should go with the race series or street series? I was thinking the 2.5" race series because we don't have inspection here in SC. Will no cat mess with the ecu? As for the rest, I'll just keep researching and reading.
DESCRIPTION: Performance software specially engineered to run at 22psi of boost.
GAS TYPE: Optimized for 93 Octane / 98 Ron gas
INSTALLATION: Flashed directly through the (OBDII) Diagnostic port of your Volkswagen (10-15 minutes).
Flash time is an approximation and may vary in some cases.
REQUIRED HARDWARE:
K04-022 Turbo
Audi TT 225HP Fuel Injectors (386cc)
Audi TT 225HP Maf Housing (Keeping your stock sensor)
Turboback Exhaust System
Cold Air Intake / Short Ram
lol ya i ment to refer that to his 250-300hp goal. thats as much as you can get out of a k04 with the tune. after that, your looking at upgrading internals and spending a ton of moola
I read a thread that said the AWW is up to 2002.5, then starts the AWP (which is a 30hp difference) so I won't know until I can look in the spare tire well and see the code right?
I also keep getting mixed up between the k03 and k04 turbos. I have to keep referring to the stickies to see which one is in the 2002 1.8t
Last edited by Ryhan1.8Twolfy; 01-21-2013 at 08:16 PM.
I read a thread that said the AWW is up to 2002.5, then starts the AWP (which is a 30hp difference) so I won't know until I can look in the spare tire well and see the code right?
I also keep getting mixed up between the k03 and k04 turbos. I have to keep referring to the stickies to see which one is in the 2002 1.8t
You can check the engine code on the engine bay, its located on the timing belt cover, quick and easy
I'll check the code as soon as I get the car. I'm not picking it up until the 8th. But ya the closest performance shop to me is JKs in Summerville. 103 mile hike
"Stage 2 allows you to run a de-cat or sports cat without having a CEL (Check Engine Light) come on."
Just found that on the revo site. So I guess I wouldn't need a cat. You think it would sound better?
It may not seem to make sense to worry about all this before I buy the car, but I'm the type that if I don't buy the parts when I have the money as soon as I buy the car, then I'll spend it. Hahaha
But it also says this:
"CEL delete feature for race use only."
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