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Old 06-23-2011, 11:33 PM
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Default Jetta Timing Belt

Hey all you timing belt experts, need your help!

99 Jetta GL 2.0L with AEG engine

Belt broke and had to have the exhaust valves replaced and then installed head back on ok with no problems.

There is a notch on the crankshaft pulley and I lined it up with the mark on the lower timing belt cover for piston TDC. I then lined up the notch on the camshaft pulley with the OT mark on the bracket on top of the valve cover. I made sure the piston was on the compression stroke by noting that the intake valve had just closed prior to the notch on the camshaft pulley lining up with the mark on the bracket.

Carefully put belt on without moving either pulley and set tensioner properly. I have turned the crankshaft about 30 or 40 times now due mostly to paranoia and wanting to make sure everything is ok and the marks still line up properly - both crankshaft and camshaft pulley notches still line up with respective marks together. I would think if something were amiss the marks would be off but they are still dead-on after all those rotations. I really want my poor old valves to stay the way they are - not bent - for a long time.

Did I get it right?
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:53 AM
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Do you have a manual transmission? If so, pull the flywheel sight plug, there is a notch on the flywheel that lines up with the notch on the tranny. Sounds like you did everything right.
VWVortex.com - DIY: Timing Belt And Coolant Pump Replacement on 2.0 AEG! Pics Inside!
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:40 AM
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Default Timing belt

Its an automatic.

I read where you can check the mark on the torque converter for TDC but I had trouble finding it and then found the notch on the crankshaft pulley, which is much easier to view.

The link you attached is a great link for changing the waterpump and timing belt (I did use it and thanks for sending it!) but in the instructions he uses the marking method for replacing the timing belt, which assumes your belt didn't break, unlike mine. He also says to use the Bently manual if you don't use the marking method although I don't have that manual. I do have the Haynes manual, which I feel is pretty well written for my car although this is the first time using the manual to replace the belt and I so don't want to get it wrong!

Have also been curious to see if anyone has counted the number of teeth on the belt between the notch on the camshaft when at TDC and the notch on the crankshaft when at TDC also. This would really verify work when replacing the belt if one knew the number of teeth that seperated the notches. The only catch is that since the notch on the crankshaft pulley is at the 12 o'clock position when at TDC, you would have to add half the teeth on the crankshaft cog to get the 6 o'clock position since the belt wraps around the bottom side of the cog as opposed to the topside of the cog. Am I making sense?
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:01 AM
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Sounds like you got it right. If you don't feel any interference after turning the crankshaft two full revolutions then you shoud be ok.

The guy who did this Audi TT TB counted 68 teeth between marks but I wouldn't rely on using that as a fitting guide. Never mind - I just realized you have a 2.0 so the tooth count would be different from the Audi anyway. Really great pics in that DIY though.

Last edited by AgGTI; 06-24-2011 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:32 PM
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if you rotated the motor over and didnt feel any unusual resistance i would say it should be fine
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:53 PM
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Default Timing belt alignment

I just got done replacing the water pump on an AEG 2.0L. Quite an experience but I was able to do it without any special tools. I ended up having to reset the timing belt and it was not that hard. Here's how:

I was able to get a 19mm socket (3/8" base) wedged between the plastic splash guard and into the crankshaft pulley. I slipped a 3/4"X18" iron pipe over the ratchet handle to get extra leverage and get the handle clear of the engine. Some duct tape on the socket handle and end of the pipe will hold it from slipping. Set the ratchet to tighten so you are turning the crankshaft clockwise as you look at it from the passenger side.

While the belt is off, make sure the crankshaft is NOT at TDC, recommend about a quarter rotation away either direction. There are two ways to identify TDC. The first and easiest is to look straight down on the top of the crankshaft pulley and behind it. On the case, right behind the pulley, you will see a vertical notch. As you rotate the crank, you will see a notch on the behind the pulley. First go through TDC about a quarter rotation so you can set the camshaft without damaging the valves. The throw on the ratchet is small so it may take dozens of throws to get a full turn on the crankshaft but better than trying to pull off the splash guard and crankshaft pulley as described in many other videos and blogs. To verify TDC, you can check the flywheel on the transmission side of the engine. It is hard to see, but there is a rubber oval shaped plug on the top of the tranny bell. You will have to stand on the driver side and probably move some rubber lines out of the way to see it. Just pull on the plug to remove it. There are two holes and you want to look into the larger one closer to the engine (with gears in view). You will have to move around and shine a bright flashlight there to get a good view. At TDC, you will see a 0 mark. For manual tranny, this is lined up directly in the center of the window. For auto, I believe it is lined up on the right edge (recommend research that one as I did a manual).

Next, set the camshaft to TDC by placing the 19mm socket on and lining up the notch on the camshaft pulley with the arrow on the case, again rotating clockwise. Now return to the crankshaft and set it to TDC as described earlier.

Now, the tensioner should be set to the lowest setting. I was able to use a long standard screwdriver to push on the eccentric cam in the center instead of buying the special tool or using the 90 deg needle nose (since I don't have one). Basically, you will see a flat spot on the cam on either side of the nut which the screwdriver tip can push on to align the cam as needed. With the cam 180 away from the belt (least tension), ensure the belt is seated on the crankshaft timing belt gear and over the water pump gear. With the belt over the tensioner, take out any slack and line the teeth of the belt up on the cam pulley. To get the belt on the rest of the way, work the edge of the belt over the cam pulley little by little until the edge of the belt is on top of the pulley. It might take some pulling but DO NOT move the cam pulley or the crank pulley during the process. Center up the belt on the cam and water pump pulleys.

Next, set the tension by pushing on the left side of the cam with the long standard screwdriver. Reach around the back of the left side of the tensioner as you do this and you will feel a lever move clockwise the harder you push. You will also feel an indexer at about the 10 o'clock position. The goal is to push on the cam with the screwdriver until the tension lever moves up to the indexer. Then tighten the 13mm nut on the tensioner. Once it is tight, double check the lever is still lined up with the indexer by feeling behind the tensioner.

If you want, rotate the crank through a rotation or two to check nothing is binding. Double check the tensioner lever is still aligned with the indexer. You have now set the timing.

I also ran the engine for just a few seconds to make sure all was right.
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