i have a 2002 gti 1.8t and i was trying to figure out how to install a manual boost controller and bypass the computer so can someone please let me kno thanks
i can see the next post already...just installed man. boost controller, now CEL. save your money and get it chipped. you will be much happier and will save yourself headaches.
You can't bypass the ECU on newer cars, the fuel map is too dependant on what the ECU reads and can't just add fuel based upon what you set your boost controller at. Get a chip for your car and you can adjust the modes for different octane ratings like with APR 91/93/100 octane modes. Trust me with a boost controller you're just going to cause detonation and end up needing a new head.
__________________
Cody
Virtually Torqueless Economy Car
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity.
so there is no hope for those of us with manual boost controllers?
its easy 2 install i just did mine
put a T in the top and side air lines leading to the N75 valve, which controls the opening and closing of the wastegate, then run lines into from the T's into ur boost controller, depending on the type of boost controller u have it shouldnt matter which side the lines run into, mine is Forge
so be located in the top right of the engine under the engine cover
the problem ur gonna run into is going into limp mode which is what my current problem is
yes ur boost will go up, when starting out u will spike at w/e u set it at, but then limp mode will kick in if it is above i would say 12lbs bc thats wat mine is currently doing
but the odd thing is if i do a 5th gear pull i will get that 12lbs of boost w/o going into limp mode
but then again i havent had the time to really test it an see if its consistent when i do the 5th gear pull
but i need help on trying to figure this out 2
there has to be a way to bypass or do something to the ecu bc wats the point of evening having a manual boost controller
"but i need help on trying to figure this out 2
there has to be a way to bypass or do something to the ecu bc wats the point of evening having a manual boost controller"
Yeah, there is a way. Get a chip. Nothing more needs to be said.
If you're adding so much boost that you're putting your car into limp mode then you're not safely running boost. I'm at around 16-17 holding and the car runs like a champ, I even spike to 22 and the car doesn't go into limp mode. The reason it only runs 8.8 PSI stock is because it's what the stock tune is capable of. All you're doing is systematically ruining your fuel map and making your car hate you. The easy way out is ALWAYS the worst way out
__________________
Cody
Virtually Torqueless Economy Car
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity.
but y would it not be safely turning up the boost?
the only thing i can think of is the air/fuel ratio
but im only turning it up about 5lbs
should that really affect the fuel map that much?
but y would it not be safely turning up the boost?
the only thing i can think of is the air/fuel ratio
but im only turning it up about 5lbs
should that really affect the fuel map that much?
Does adding just 5lbs psi to your tires change it that much? Now figure that in an engine which is much more susceptible to differences. BOV's releasing 5lbs of pressure into the atmosphere causes a big problem...
heres a tip go sell that manual boost controller to some kid with a honda thats boosting. then sit back and watch as he blows up his motor. then go get a apr/ giac chip for 200-500 bucks depends on how many programs ur running. ur goin to get detonation with the boost controller and like ttt said ur really fucking with ur air fuel maps by manually controlling the wastegate then the computer is like wtf and dumps more fuel in thinking that the n75 valve is bad or if ur car likes u it goes into limp mode so u cant break anything.
just listen to ppl on these forums expecially the older members here they really know alot about these cars and im expanding my horizions on vw products ever since i started working at the dealership i learn something new bout vws everyday and everyday they amaze me.
so take our advice and buy a chip, after you get the chip get a cold/ram air intake, then a upgraded DIVERTER VALVE not a BOV. bov lets metered air into the atmosphere making the engine think it has more air in the cylinders than what it actually has making the engine dump more fuel causing it to burn rich constantly. after the chip, cai, and diverter valve. the next thing u should think bout getting is a 2.5-3in turbo back exhaust it will save ya money in the long run than just getting the cat back then getting the downpipe. after you do all that the last thing u should replace is the n75 valve with the n75j valve or which ever one you preferr theres tons of threads on which valve you need.
hope this helped a lil
__________________
Brian~
Ase Certifications
Engine Repair exp 06/13
Manual Drive Train and Axle exp 12/13
Suspension and Steering exp 06/14
Brakes exp 12/13
Heating and Air Conditioning exp 06/14
Graduated Universal Technical Institute with Automotive and Deisel technology G T I
but y would it not be safely turning up the boost?
the only thing i can think of is the air/fuel ratio
but im only turning it up about 5lbs
should that really affect the fuel map that much?
the computer is programmed to recognize normal boost if i remeber correctly for each pound of boost the 1.8t makes the injector pulse with is increased by .1-.2milliseconds soo with that in mind if the computer sees that the engine is recieving the normal 11.7lbs of boost it will correct the fuel maps accordingly.
but if you manually turn up and down the boost the computer recognizes that as a fault in the n75 valve which should throw a DTC if it hasent already or go into limp mode. because the n75 valve in the 1.8t is set to a certain psi to maintain if you go and bypass/ control that valve it no longer has a purpose. when you crank that manual boost controller up to make the turbo spit out another 5lbs of boost that the computer didnt command for it starts dumping fuel into the cylinders thinking that something is wrong. like i said in my last post just follow what most ppl hav to say on here.
__________________
Brian~
Ase Certifications
Engine Repair exp 06/13
Manual Drive Train and Axle exp 12/13
Suspension and Steering exp 06/14
Brakes exp 12/13
Heating and Air Conditioning exp 06/14
Graduated Universal Technical Institute with Automotive and Deisel technology G T I
yeah im taking off the boost controller 2day
i already have cold air intake an im getting 2.5" turboback exhaust either next week or the following week
im going to get the apr r1 diverter valve soon after depending on my money situation
i cant risk messing up my engine so im just gonna take it off an try 2 sell it 2 some1
an this is the whole reason i joined here bc this is my first "tuner" car an i really dont know a whole lot about them an i want 2 do this rite
so thanks 4 the help
Then I strongly recommend reading the 1.8T FAQ at the top of the MK IV section page that I made, anything and everything you want to know about basic modding a 1.8T
__________________
Cody
Virtually Torqueless Economy Car
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity.
yeah i read that an i have already got the cold air intake, getting exhaust w/in the next 2 weeks, im going 2 chip it when i get the money so that will b prob in jan. maybe sonner dependin on wat hours i get
an then ill work on the exterior like rims an tyres an coilovers
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.