well i just bought this car and ive had it for about a month and ive noticed some things that maybe my fellow vdubers can explain to me,
1. the car vibrates between 1000-1200 rpms and thats it
2. i have put new rotars on good pads and bleed rhe brakes 3 times and the pedel is very weak but as soon as you touch the pedel you can feel it braking but if you slam the brake it has a hard jerk feel. ive bleed the fronts 3 times and its squriks out clean fulid.
3. when im idling at a stop light at night if i rev up the headlights get brighter but dim back down when it gets back to idle at 800 rpms
4. im pretty sure my control arm bushings on the front left are bad because when you torque down the lugs the tire comes back to the fender wheel, and i had a friend drive my car and i seen that the tire literly jumped back to the fender well when he hit the brakes,
5. and last but not least is it able to hook up aftermarket cd player with subs and amp? and keep the moonsoon amp in the car?
1. Auto or manual? describe the vibration, feel it in toes, hands, whole car?
2. sounds like air in lines, low fluid, or both.
3. Alternator is small in these cars i feel at 90A. or battery is beginning to fail.
4. Sounds dangerous.
5. Why would you? it runs at at 3 ohms, has low SQ, and is probably no stronger than a current HU puts out itself.
2.yeah but ive bleed the brakes like 3 times and i cant find any air in the lines
3.na batt is brand new bought it the day i bought the car, bat is duralast gold.
4. yeah just a little but im taking it easy till i get it fixed thats for sure and im heading to pep boys in the morning sometime see what tthey think about it
5. yeah but idk subs in a lil gti would hit pretty nice, my mk3 jetta had two 12's in it and it sounds amazing with them
1. You sure your shifting patterns are not a cause of the shudder? Could be tied to dimming lights. Low voltage causing poor performance off the line.
2. Using a power bleeder or hand pump?
3. Could just be a failing ALT then. Does it happen when other accessories are shut down?
4. Could be ball joints, strut top mounts, anything worn on suspension system
5. I am all for subs, just saying why keep the OEM amp if you swap to a new HU and add amps and subs?
1. yeah it does it when im out of gear
2.nope. just someone pumping the brakes while im at the caliper
3.idk it only does it when i rev up
4.na ball joints and tire rods are new, struts ore good besides a lil rust on the body of one nothing major
5.but you can swap to subs and amp but the moonsoon will not be used?
2. Get a bleeder
3. Get a volt meter and check what it drops to. They are not getting brighter when you rev, they are dimming due to the ALT not maintaining voltage.
4.Already gave my opinion on this one, take it or leave it. You are basically saying the car can not maintain caster.
5. All depends on what you want etc. The price if a quality harness to tie into the monsoon system will cost as much as a decent 4 channel amp to replace te monsoon amp. If you do the HU you might as well do the whole system.
so you have a aftermarket headunit hooked up to the moonsoon for your speakers, than off your headunit you have a amp hooked up with subs? without by passing any wires?
amd oh how do you have it hooked up?
you need the monsoon amp or the audio system won't work, that's my understanding when I was reading up on deleting it to make space for a battery. If you remove it your sound wiring is gonna get 100x more complicated instantly.
Keep the amp in the stock location, get an adapter harness for your new deck, run the sub power wire from the battery, RCA signal wires from the deck to the SUB AMP in the back, and connect the SUB AMP to the subs and enjoy the backrub. Easy peasy.
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