ok, im going to be having the apr k04 turbo kit installed next week. i am also going to put other upgrades later on, that are going to add more hp/tq. i have a tipronic. now, frm what i hear, having this turbo kit with a catback exhaust/ cai/ and aftermarket dv, i can possibly make 220 to 245 hp at the crank and up to 275 lbs of tq, maybe more at 93.
now the question, after i add other bolt ons, can i lower the boost down to help preserve my transmission? at least until i can figure out what to do. would it be wise to get an electronic boost controller or manual for this sort of thing?
i know this is kinda working the other way of where we usually want to be going. but until i can figure out whether to swap a manual or have my transmission solidified by the transmission shop i found, i need to run on lower boost. that and plus money. i dont rily drive hard all the time, just when i feel it in my veins. thinking i can even run normal boost since i dont rily wanna push the car too much, most of the time. every now and then, more then than now, hard driving cant hurt transmission too much on 93 settings frm apr w/ k04 on auto/tip.
The chip puts you right below what the tiptronic can handle for torque (250 ft lb) and if you just get the chip first it's only 200 dollars for the software upgrade for the k04 setup as opposed to 700 so it's a lot more intelligent to just get chipped until you get a manual in the car. A manual swap isn't cheap and if you roast your automatic after getting the k04 and are short on money you're pretty much boned. Just do the chip for now.
__________________
Cody
Virtually Torqueless Economy Car
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity.
always with the good advice, thanks cody. well, since im going to have this extra mula, would it be wise to get the chip plus a bigger side mount ic as well as do the vent in the wheel well to decrease heat soak? when i do go ko4, ive heard its better to just have an upgraded smic, ej or tyrolsport, than a fmic cause the turbo is not big enuff to rily need a fmic. true? what would be the most necessary upgrade with a chip. got a CBE, forge splitr on dv mode, cai. bigger smic or downpipe and forge TIP?
always with the good advice, thanks cody. well, since im going to have this extra mula, would it be wise to get the chip plus a bigger side mount ic as well as do the vent in the wheel well to decrease heat soak? when i do go ko4, ive heard its better to just have an upgraded smic, ej or tyrolsport, than a fmic cause the turbo is not big enuff to rily need a fmic. true? what would be the most necessary upgrade with a chip. got a CBE, forge splitr on dv mode, cai. bigger smic or downpipe and forge TIP?
If you're goin for bolt ons and nice upgrades I'd do these in this order:
1. Chip (APR, GIAC)
2. Diverter valve
3. Short ram intake (I have the neuspeed p-flo and love it)
4. Turboback exhaust (Find a good catback and mate it up to a eurocustoms 3" downpipe w/ test pipe and use the APR software to clear the CEL)
5.Turbo inlet pipe (I prefer the APR one because it comes with a free PCV hose)
6. Lower intercooler pipe (replaces pancake pipe, once again try neuspeed)
7. Throttle body hose (APR brand)
8. K04 upgrade kit
9. SMIC
You're right about the front mount, most people get one just for the looks but you don't see heat soak on the stock pipe until you upgrade the turbo and even then a front mount isn't necessary, usually makes you lose more power than you gain just from the extra distance the air has to go.
__________________
Cody
Virtually Torqueless Economy Car
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity.
hey cody, for steps 9 and 6... if i were to get the eurojet or tyrolsport upgraded smic, i believe their sets include a nonbreakfast pipe. ok besides the obvious differences between a cai and short ram... what other major differences do they have. i would think that the cai would be better cause your getting much denser/cooler air. i have read different preferences, but i would like to hear why you went with the ram. the p-flo is the one with the metal guard that goes around the filter ryt? as far as catback i believe you and i have the same one from autotech. sounds great.. not too obnoxious. il definitely look into this. thanx. i saw another thread here... forgot where that pretty much sums up, the same way you did, the steps of the way to go for tuning these engines. from stage 0 (diode mod, wheel well vent) to like stage 5 (big turbo). ill try and look for it again. i know i subscribed... well well.. thanx again cody
hey cody, for steps 9 and 6... if i were to get the eurojet or tyrolsport upgraded smic, i believe their sets include a nonbreakfast pipe. ok besides the obvious differences between a cai and short ram... what other major differences do they have. i would think that the cai would be better cause your getting much denser/cooler air. i have read different preferences, but i would like to hear why you went with the ram. the p-flo is the one with the metal guard that goes around the filter ryt? as far as catback i believe you and i have the same one from autotech. sounds great.. not too obnoxious. il definitely look into this. thanx. i saw another thread here... forgot where that pretty much sums up, the same way you did, the steps of the way to go for tuning these engines. from stage 0 (diode mod, wheel well vent) to like stage 5 (big turbo). ill try and look for it again. i know i subscribed... well well.. thanx again cody
I prefer the forge upgraded SMIC, it's cheap and flows way better than stock. The reason a cold air intake is pointless on a turbo engine is because once the air passes through the turbo it's going to be hot anyways, the intercooler is there to cool that hot air down.
__________________
Cody
Virtually Torqueless Economy Car
Sarcasm is the body's natural defense against stupidity.
checked out the forge smic and the eurojet smic. the forge is 600 just for the core and ej smic kit is 465 including a 2.5"tb hose. is the forge smic bigger? didnt really see any dimensions for the ej smic on their site. i know forge is 27x5x15mm.
Yeah, i think imma go with the ej setup. I need to change my dv, got the forge spltr, but just not all abt having to go through the clicks everytime i add ponies/psi to the car. Thinking abt the R1 from APR. No maintenance and its apr. What can i say.
I just put the R1 on my chipped passat. I can def feel a difference in how quick the turbo spools. It is even quieter than the stock DV, even though some may not like that.
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