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Hey! ok, i got one more serious problem to solve before i can get this bug rolling. air in the front two brake lines. the rear lines have no air in them. how do i bleed the master cylinder? some one told me that the lil bolt on top of the mastercylinder, in between the two lines (on top) is a bleeder for that front plunger. help please
Just bleed them at the wheel cylinders. You can do this yourself by getting a hose that fits over the bleeder and a jug of some sort. put some brake fluid in the jug and submerge one end of hose into it(you might have to tie something on it to help) keep it submerged) Put the other end over the bleeder and open it up. go inside and pump the push the pedal down slowly. Do this 5 or 6 times . Make sure you don't run out of brake fluid in res. Then close the bleeder and do the other side. Repeat. start with the passenger side. This should get rid of the air if it has some. could be bypassing in the MC. But first before anything make sure all the shoes are adjusting properly or you will just spinning your wheels.(so to speak)
i might not have them adjusted properly. i did so that i had a lil bit of drag on the wheels when i spin them. very flustrating! i am supposed to adjust that star till it drags then back off a hair then do the other star the same, does that sound correct?
oki i readjusted the brakes, re bled the lines, no more air! but!!!! still not a lot of pedal. less than half is actual brake?? and i have to really push to get it to slow/ stop, and thats just going down the block. (10-20 mph) any suggestions
Have you had the drums off to check the shoes? Some times the adjusting stars are installed backwards so the shoes won't "slide" like they are supposed to. Drums past wear limit will cause this to as will improper brake rod clearance at MC. Just need a little,don't remember # but not much ,thousandths of an inch. Yes adjust till no drag then back off till slight drag, might have to do this more than once if the bug has had no TLC recently.
pulling the old brake shoes tomorrow! the brakes have a grinding sound when adjusted. like spin the wheel and it will grind for half the rotation and spin freely the rest of that rotation? also the rear brakes...the foward pads are more worn than the rear pads? then that nut holding the drums on, thats gonna be fun getting off and on i bet! haha
new shoes all da way around, and still doesnt stop. got some tiny air bubbles in the front drivers side line?? but still, the back brakes should work, right?? maybe its something to do with the e brake adjustment?? do i adjust that at the pull handle? will that even effect the brake adjust/ bleeding, ect? man this brake deal is kick my butt!
Back of the brake cables at the handle then readjust the rear brakes. Sometime the cables get adjusted with out the rear brakes being adjusted.
Are you getting fluid out of all the wheel cylinders? Does the pedal pump up?
yes, all the lines are bled, the front drivers has a lil air (tiny bubbles ) flowing thru when pumping\bleeding. not really, it doesnt go to the floor(the pedal), but it doesnt pump/ pressure up either. could that be the mc? thanks derf
hey derf! say, i am replacing that mc tomorrow. there are two lines going to the mc from the reserve, they connect into the mc and have rubber ends. how the heck do i remove those two lines? lol, thanks ahead of time
The new MC should have white plastic nipples coming out of the top. these connect to a short piece of blue brake hose which in turn attach to the metal lines coming down from the reservoir. This is how it should be anyway from the factory. The blue hose should pull off if not you might have to slice them tho get them off and replace the blue hose.
cool thanks, i tugged on the connection (where rubber meets lines in top of mc) a lil. got worried. just wanted to be sure. i am really excited, I will actually get to go for a ride after these brakes are fixed!!! Then, i am sure it will still keep me busy (outta trouble), maybe! TGIF
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