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new oil pump? Or at least the old checked? proper bearings for line bore and crank? New crank?
Oil pump gaskets installed right? What weight oil,dyno or synthetic?
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derf
No matter where you go,there you are.
My post are my opinion of what has worked for me but are not the gospel What I post is what I do on my cars. I am here to try and help not to impress or boast
the crankshaft is used, the machine shop sold me the bearing, did the align bore and sold me the crankshaft, cam, etc. oil pump new
*my question
*
.. IF it has pressure cold but as soon as the plunger spring in the oil relief valve area heats up it expands push the plunger up and diverting the oil flow to the cooler,when hot the diverting process puts the oil pressure to zero. im thinking the oil cooler pathway is plugged. and when increasing the rpms enough to increase the pressure in the are enough to push the plunger down to bypass the cooler registering 20psi at 4000k.. thats my theory
Last edited by vw1960dude; 11-14-2009 at 08:36 PM.
you are on the right track ,many 1200 needed cam brgs installed after bad over heating or running out of oil like yours. I would not limit it to cam bearings though. Make sure the relief valve or more correctly the oil cooler switch does not stick in the open position.
the oil would not get pumped through the oil cooler and gradually over heat the motor
since the oil pressure is only 20 psi cold sounds like main bearing clearance is a little to much
we like to run no more than .0027" on main bearings and this is on drag engines that see very little time but lots of rpm
since you ran out of oil make sure the case did not overheat. you can check by torqueing the case halves together with the crank out and look at the center main bearing you should not see daylight between the case halves above or below the bearing if you do see daylight the only thing to fix it is to heat treat the case and have it aligned bored.
by the way driving the car at 90 for 30min did not kill the motor the real problem is what you are trying to cure now either the relief valve was sticking and not cooling the oil properly. good luck and if you have any other questions please feel free to call or email
Thanks man thats some good info.. The main bearing clearances were good, although i didnt use a plastique, i bought the parts from the machine shop
*update
11/27/09 I bought an engine off Craig's list. 300 bucks Complete 1776cc motor. HOWEVER, it really was a single port 30mm carb 1600cc filled to the top with Water!! It didnt turn over, was seized. I bought it for the parts, had fairly new alternator, tin, carb, etc. After stripping the block bare , it was good! I took it to that machine shop and had it cleaned and align bored along with the crankshaft, cam, rods to get checked. I didnt like the priced the owner was telling me, because the prices were up too 50% more than last time i went there for the 40 horse block. Didnt make sense until he told me that it was his cousin filling in for him and the prices his cousin were off by so much.. ANyways he got Mad, started taking apart the 3rd main bearing off the new re-manufactured crankshaft i had to buy, and He Picked up the block up and dropped it a little off the concrete!!! i was disappointed in these guys, supposed to be pros. Anyways finished spending over 4 bills in parts/machine work i took the home the block. My buddy said the block should have had case savers installed, so back to the unnamed machine shop!. i called him 2 hours after leaving the block at the shop again for case savers, and i get a call saying the block is cracked on the bottom going toward the oil pressure sender hole.
Last edited by vw1960dude; 12-07-2009 at 03:13 PM.
Sorry you are having so much problems with this
To late now but sometimes it is easier and cheaper to buy a short block already done.
And you never know what is inside the 1600CC block till you take it apart
But do not blame the machinist for cracking your block, it is common practice to bounce the engine case off the floor to separate the two halves
And where you describe it being cracked is a common occurrence so most just buy a new case. These case original cases are old now and who knows what they been thru or how many miles on them
And to ericams, running an unknown ACVW engine at 90 MPH for 30 miles did not do it any good as this guy found out the hard expensive lesson learning way
__________________
derf
No matter where you go,there you are.
My post are my opinion of what has worked for me but are not the gospel What I post is what I do on my cars. I am here to try and help not to impress or boast
Hey SInce i have low oil pressure on the 1200cc, im thinking i should upgrade to a high volume pump. i read its used to restore oil pressure in 40hp motors. (MY PROBLEM SOLVER?) "This pump is often used to help restore the oil pressure to 40hp engines with worn cam journal supports."-CB website CB Performance - Online Catalog
*update, for the 1600cc, i got case savers installed except one, i picked up the shorted studs to convert to dual port. and now the block is getting checked out by a welder. hopefully they save it. ill post pic when possible. . i didnt get the oil pump for the 1200cc yet. it turns out its a 21mm gear pump with 8mm holes for studs, im upgrading to possibly 26mm oil pump. the gears are longer by a 1/4". hopefully it restores oil pressure when hot for the 1200cc engine. when i get the 1600cc block back from the welder,-ill have that fully built in 2 days ready to swap, BUT if the high volume pump works out for the 1200cc then im going to keep the 1200cc in the car, and keep the 1600cc. remember im doing this for a buddy, after i seized his 1200cc. ill update soon
Last edited by vw1960dude; 12-07-2009 at 10:06 PM.
You still did not answer what weight of oil you are using Dyno,synthetic?
And if you did not check the clearance on the bearings, how do you "know" they are OK?
__________________
derf
No matter where you go,there you are.
My post are my opinion of what has worked for me but are not the gospel What I post is what I do on my cars. I am here to try and help not to impress or boast
the machine shop checked them 2 times, i was just stating that i didnt use a plastique, i check the 1600cc crankshaft already is good. the oil is dyno, 30HD.
Last edited by vw1960dude; 12-07-2009 at 05:01 PM.
You mean straight 30 HD?
For what the oil pump cost it would be worth a shot. Is yours 8 or 6 mm studs on the 1200cc.
And let's not get to many different engines going in this thread
keep this one for the 1200cc
Start another for the 1600cc questions
__________________
derf
No matter where you go,there you are.
My post are my opinion of what has worked for me but are not the gospel What I post is what I do on my cars. I am here to try and help not to impress or boast
its 8mm studs, i have to get longer ones. The 26mm gear oil pump will boost the pressure 20% but but going to get the high volume pump, boost to 30%. I got the 21mm gear oil pump installed. ANd the 1600cc is getting welded, i have to take it to the machine shop after to get the welds cleaned up on the cylinder holes and stuff.. Ill know if the oil pump works by tomorrow at lunch. wish me luck
i took out the oil pump on the 1200cc and it already was a 26mm 1inch long gears heavy duty.. i put in a 30mm gear oil pump and it would hold the seal around the pump, just leaks. i redid the seal, and it leaks, too much pressure i guess. anyways i dropped down the motor out the beetle and getting the 1600cc built up and installed today hopefully. It was single port, but i changed out the studs made the inner shorter, installed case savers, align bored the case, pretty much all new internals,
-a 009 dizzy-$39.00
-34mm carb-109
-dual heads with intake-100
-cooler 35
-pistons cylinders-109
etc
i hope it works, im going to use 26mm gear oil pump inch long gears. the 1200cc is just sitting there. so pretty, big bore and everything. so sad. im going to have to store it until i feel like taking it apart and getting the cam journels bored for bearings. ill post a video of the beetle with the 1600cc engine running later today. its going to be a step up from the 1200. its dual port
thanks for every bodies help. i tried using the 30mm gear pump in the 1200cc motor to help with the oil pressure and it workd!! lowest it got was 7psi, and the light never turned on either. i test the circuit to make sure the oil pressure switch works and it does, replaced it also. and it runs good. im still going to put the 1600cc motor in. its currently short blocked. i posted a video like i said Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
Last edited by vw1960dude; 12-24-2009 at 08:54 PM.
great glad you got it sorted out with no more troubles
__________________
derf
No matter where you go,there you are.
My post are my opinion of what has worked for me but are not the gospel What I post is what I do on my cars. I am here to try and help not to impress or boast
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