Timing belt...

ecyrbh · #1 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 08:30 PM

Hello to All..I just inherited a 01 Passat 4cyl turbo from a family member.The car has a broken timing belt and/or water pump.What I need to know is;Are there are any special tools needed to do this job and just how difficult is it to do? I am a former ASE mechanic(been out of doing repairs professionally for about 10 years),but have never worked on a Passat before.I know this is a close tolerance engine and I know what I could be in for.I want to get a new belt on it so I can do a leak-down and hope for the best.Any help with a proceedure or tips would be appreciated.I used the search feature here but not to sure how this forum works.Its a little different from the one I'm a member of for a different make of vehicle............Thanks,Bryce

TTTurbo1.8T · #2 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 09:28 PM

You need to pull the head and check to make sure that you don't have any bent valves or scratched pistons, replace the head studs while you're in there. You will need a special tool to take off i believe the alternator pulley...

ecyrbh · #3 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 09:43 PM

If I can avoid pulling the head,that will be good enough.I'm going to put a new TB on it and do a cylinder leak-down test.This should tell me if anything is bent.This Failure happened at a low speed and wasn't turned over when it happened,The one thing my relative did right.I pulled the cover to show him how loose the belt is and he said the car is yours if you want it.I just need to know what is involved and what special tools are needed. As posted above,what special PS tool is needed,I didn't really pay that much attention to it at the time.

Ninja Please · #4 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TTTurbo1.8T

You need to pull the head and check to make sure that you don't have any bent valves or scratched pistons, replace the head studs while you're in there. You will need a special tool to take off i believe the alternator pulley...

Cody, Just curious.....How common is it for the timing belt to go and not cause any damage?

ecyrbh · #5 (**permalink**) 10-31-2009, 07:30 PM

Well,here's what I found.....Timing belt,FUBAR......Water pump,FUBAR(although not part of the real problem).....Tried to rotate cam pulley,wouldn't move but a little bit.....I Pulled the Valve cover......Exhaust cam and coloration of cam journal caps,Normal........Intake Cam REAR journal cap,BLACK in color--FUBAR(BIG TIME).....Also found a lot of plastic down in the nooks and crannies near that cap and in between rollers of the chain for the cams....Exhaust Cam is galled and seized in the head at that journal as well as the one just in front of it.......I'm guessing the Cam lost its lubrication somehow,It locked up,That is what stripped the teeth off of the timing belt on the crank pulley,almost sheared the key built into cam gear,then it quit running.....Where did all of the melted plastic(Brown in color) come from????....This is the (ATW) 1.8 liter Turbo.....Help me out please

TTTurbo1.8T · #6 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninja Please

Cody, Just curious.....How common is it for the timing belt to go and not cause any damage?

It's a really low chance that you won't get a piston and a valve smashing into eachother....almost all the time with interference motors you will have that problem.

perrib · #7 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 07:37 PM

Most likely you are going to find a sludged up oil pump screen. The biggest problem with a used VW 1.8T is the dealers did the oil change for free under warranty. First it had a tiny oil filter and even with synthetic oil the interval was twice as long as it should of been. Second many dealers did not use synthetic oil. Even with synthetic oil and the larger oil filter even synthetic oil starts looking old at 5-7.5 k miles. Even when I told original and subsequent owners to change the oil more often 95% of them could of cared less even when I showed them cars in the shop like yours. As you know at the minimum your going to have to flush the oil galleys and replace the head and oil pump assembly. We had to closely inspect sludge free used engines as often they got pressure washed after the plugs were removed and had rusted cylinders and valves. The only special tool would be the TB tensioner lock pin which comes with the new tensioner.

TTTurbo1.8T · #8 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perrib

Most likely you are going to find a sludged up oil pump screen. The biggest problem with a used VW 1.8T is the dealers did the oil change for free under warranty. First it had a tiny oil filter and even with synthetic oil the interval was twice as long as it should of been. Second many dealers did not use synthetic oil. Even with synthetic oil and the larger oil filter even synthetic oil starts looking old at 5-7.5 k miles. Even when I told original and subsequent owners to change the oil more often 95% of them could of cared less even when I showed them cars in the shop like yours. As you know at the minimum your going to have to flush the oil galleys and replace the head and oil pump assembly. We had to closely inspect sludge free used engines as often they got pressure washed after the plugs were removed and had rusted cylinders and valves. The only special tool would be the TB tensioner lock pin which comes with the new tensioner.

How frequent would you change oil in a 1.8T? Synthetic of course

perrib · #9 (**permalink**) 11-01-2009, 10:52 PM

The best way is to get the oil tested. (Google engine oil testing.) While totally unscientific I told customers to wait until it changed color and change it 500 miles before that usually 5,000-7,500 miles. Even it is a little to soon oil is still cheaper than new engine parts and the labor. Also use the updated (larger) Mann filter oil filter and as always a new crush washer. On a side note the oil engine I have seen the synthetic oil go the factory reccomended distance with out discoloring is some late model BMWs. Many Mecedes models also suffer from sludge build up due to too long of a factory reccomended oil change interval.

TTTurbo1.8T · #10 (**permalink**) 11-02-2009, 12:57 AM

Does an aftermarket filter (mobil-1, wix, purolator) do as good of a job of filtering or at least sufficient enough of a job?

perrib · #11 (**permalink**) 11-02-2009, 10:33 AM

Wix has more than one grade of filters get the best. As for the others I don't know. I do know most aftermarket oil filters have very little filter media in them compared to Mann. The down side to less filter media is it can get restricted and bypass the dirty oil back into you engines bearings. Autohausaz.com has Mann filters and free shipping on orders of $50 or more.
Knecht, Mahle and the the US filter company Balwin also do not compromise when it comes to filter quality.

ecyrbh · #12 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 11:29 AM

Hey guys,I may have stumbled onto a good deal,but what is the difference between a '01 1.8turbo(ATW) and a '99 1.8turbo(AEB) engine.Also is the transmission the same between the years??? Please let me know.......