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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I asked this in the shoutbox, and then realized it'd be a good idea to start the thread.
So I blew the head after upgrading the entire intake and exhaust system (manifolds, k04 turbo, 3" exhaust, aluminum SMIC, boost hoses, etc etc). With the engine out of the car, I may as well put a new clutch in. I'm going for about 300hp after the tune. I'd like some opinions on an ideal clutch setup with my mods and goals in mind. Also, do I need to do anything special going from a dual mass to single mass flywheel or just make sure the clutch will fit?
I promise I'm not a completely inept mechanic, just never had an engine & trans apart.
 

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I use apr stage 2 clutch and flywheel. Even just stage 2 likes to jerk the car pretty hard, so I cant imagine stage 3. If your building a race car and not going to be daily driving it I could see a stage 3, but back and forth from work would be a little rediculous. I think the clutch brand was dxd?
 

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Pretty sure VR6 clutch can handle most of that build.
Depends how you drive it. a vr6 clutch will grab but it'll probably slip when you really get on it. Stage 1+ will barely slip at all if it even does.
Stage 2 is over kill at under 300+ WHP

You should be careful hitting 300 hp on a k04 without rods. When you torque peak at low rpm you are putting tremendous stress on the rods as that pressure is applied to the rod for a longer duration than it would be at higher rpm(the rod is bending because the piston is trying to travel much much faster than the crank). I wouldn't be too aggressive with the tune, trying to hit full wall boost before 3.5k rpms.
ARP sells a full k04 kit that makes 300+ all day long but the way they tune it is gradual boost build as if you were running a bigger turbo.

You should do engine mounts while the motor is out. And combi/pcv/etc valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I beat my jetta like it owes me money. Olsen Engines is a multivalve/exotic engine specialist in NJ he'll be rebuilding my head with my HP goals in mind. I think i'll be looking at a stage 1+, maybe a stage 2 to accommodate future mods.
And I certainly would like to remove the SAI, evap, combi valve, ac compressor but I've heard some horror stories about fried ECU's when deleting that stuff from the computer.
Also as far as the tune goes I was thinking APR since I think they'll tune existing customers for free at waterfest. BUT I'm leaning towards paying for Eurodyne since I hear Maestro is a super useful program.

But some brands I'm considering now are DXD, southbend, and sachs.

Hopefully I'll find something good at Waterfest!

Keep an eye out for me in my Volvo S80 since the jets outta commission
 
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