well im going to be deleting all the emissions stuff in the engine bay soon. so i decided to put a thread together about it. i will throw my own DIY together once i have all the supplies to do it. for now here is the DIY i will be using. Fourtitude.com - DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete
there are many different ways to go about it. i plan on making it look very clean.
Urotuning offer a very nice kit which includes everything needed. if i had the cash, i would be going this route. - Ultimate Silicone Plus SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete Kit, 1.8T
be patient with me since i have alot going on right now. this thread may be dormant at times.
Going to be updating this. I'm in the process of finally deleting all this stuff.
There can be a lot of confusion, and this is probably better served in a master FAQ thread, but what the heck...
When you do an "emissions delete" you're deleting two main systems, the SAI (secondary air injection) system and the EVAP (evaporative emissions) system. Each of these have a specific valve associated with them when talking about doing the "deletes". The SAI system has a valve clled the N112 valve, or the SAI combi valve, which controls air flow into the cylinder head via the SAI pump. The EVAP system has a valve called the N80 valve which controls fuel vapor flow to the EVAP charcoal canister.
Now, a lot of people will get confused and think they need a connector for every little thing they unplug... this isn't so. Your usual suspects here are the vacuum-related solenoids.. they are tied into the ECU's innerworkings and thus need to be resistored to let your ECU continue to do its magic. However, though, there are things like the N249 or SAI pump itself that do not need to be resistored. Also, it's a good point to make that the SAI pump is entirely different from the combi valve, and that the SAI pump is relay power driven, so there is no need to resistor it. People will usually be looking for a plug to fit the SAI pump connector when what they actually often want is a plug for the combi valve.
SAI and EVAP, or more appropriate, N112 and N80, each require a rectangle-style and oval-style delete resistor plug, respectively. The wiring harnesses I've actually seen have a oval-to-rectangle converter portion, so you could technically go with two oval-style ones (this is what I'll push in the future) but one rectangle/one oval seems to be the current winning combination and until I can make sure oval-style will suffice for both for nearly everyone... I'll push the status quo. The N249 is a rectangle-style plug as well. N75, along with the VVT, take a rectangle-style plug.
Also, it is important to note, and people still seem to get caught up by this, that resistoring the circuits you've left open by removing all these solenoid valves does *not* stop CELs from cropping up. You will still get CELs... namely an "Improper Flow" code for the SAI pump/SAI combi valve (N112) no longer existing and thus no longer adding extra air at start-up and an "Incorrect Purge Flow" code for removing the EVAP purge (N80) valve. These need to be coded out in *software*, which means you will have to get a tuner to turn off the CELs/force the readiness for those particular systems, or if you have the prowess/equipment, do it yourself. There is no way around this and while some people report they never had codes or that they went away... I can virtually guarantee you will get codes, and your readiness will be permanently NOT READY for those systems, and that you will not pass emissions unless you live in a state that doesn't give an F or have friends at an inspection station.
Anyways... you don't need to resistor anything but the N80/N112 to keep your fuel adaptions working... but some people like the extra insurance of fully sealed connections w/ the ability to replug things back in and they end of plugging off everything they disconnected. :thumbup:
cleans up the bay and also less stuff to go wrong. some say it makes the car run much better. only downfall is getting the fault for secondary air or something flashed off the ecu and cold starts it can idle rough but clears up.
didnt know sav got the 2nd video done. he is the boss when it comes to this. ill probably start on this next week. i should have some supplies by then.
I know lots of people that do this to their VR6/1.8T...you have to put in a resistor when you remove the SAI pump and combi valve, because it puts the AFR calculation into an open loop. I have witnessed first hand the difference in power it makes and it's astonishing. Didn't bother looking but if those kits don't come with the resistor I would highly recommend buying one.
I know lots of people that do this to their VR6/1.8T...you have to put in a resistor when you remove the SAI pump and combi valve, because it puts the AFR calculation into an open loop. I have witnessed first hand the difference in power it makes and it's astonishing. Didn't bother looking but if those kits don't come with the resistor I would highly recommend buying one.
The guy that owns this business (POSTRELEASED NOT IE) is shutting down and sold his entire inventory to IE. if you want some of these plug and play resistors, BUY NOW!!!! they will sell out at some point.
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The N249 is a rectangle-style plug as well. N75, along with the VVT, take a rectangle-style plug.
