VW Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What do i need to do to the engine parts (computer, fuel pump, etc.)or any electrical in order to put a 16v head on an 8v block?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
you need all the fuel injection setup for the 16v. You'll need the intake mani and exhaust manifold. But if you're going to go through the trouble make sure you use a aba block. I wouldn't do all that work and use a 1.8l block. I'm pretty sure you'll need to change fuel pumps as well. But not 100% on that one.And you're gonna need the 16v airbox as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the info... i'm glad that some one could help me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
No problem. just look at what it says under my user name HOW MAY I HELP YOU.
if you have any more questions just ask, there is always somone who will lend a hand. Later
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
if you do the aba 2.0 bottom end you definately need the 2.0 16v fuel pump. that's one of the biggest fuel pumps vw has ever made. we did a turbo setup on my friends 2.0 97 jetta and he did an aftermarket fuel pump but it sounded like a damn hoover vacuum. we fitted the 2.0 16v pump and it gave the fuel we needed without the added noise. if i were you though i would try to find a complete car with motor and wiring in it. the 16v is a very hard swap to get running right especially if you try to use a mixture of parts (8v and 16v together). ive been working on mine for almost 3 months. but good luck if you try it and let me know if you need help. peace
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,109 Posts
Lets get this strait!! The stock VW fuel pump fuels up to 300hp. The stock pump will work great.

DON'T put a 16v head on an 8v block unless you are turboing it!!! An 8.5:1 8v with a 16v head results in about 7:1 compression, a 10:1 8v shoft block with a 16v head results in about 8.5:1.

And to prove to you how pointless it is to do this... here's the list to put a 16v head on an 8v:
Intake manifold
Exhaust manifold and dual downpipe (the 8v dual downpipe fits)
Intake piping, along with the ISV, throttle body, all of the vacuum lines and hoses.
The 16v ECU, and the 16v knock sensor system.
16v distributor
16v plug wires
16v intermediate shaft, intermediate shaft pulley, and crank shaft pulley.
16v Alternator and bracket
16v upper rad hose
16v oil pump (not for pressure, but because you have to have it to use the next part...)
16v oil pump drive gear and cover plate
16v fuel lines and injectors

Now don't forget you don't have any sort of breather on the valve cover of the 16v since it's in the block... so you'll have to weld one onto the valve cover.

When you're done you'll have a low compression slug.

To do it with the ABA it takes all those parts.. except you have to have a 2L 16v intermediate shaft, oil pump, and drive gear, and import a european ABF code timing belt, and you still have a low comp. slug.

Just get a complete 16v. Trust me. You can usually use your harness and just swap out the ECU an A2s, and if your car has a knock sensor you can use that too... just swap out the knock box.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top