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Hi,
I am currently driving a 1995 BMW 325is with supersprint exhaust, and i am selling it am going to purchase a GTI. My question is whether to buy the 24v VR6 or the 20v 1.8t. I plan on doing simple bolt on such as exhaust, CAI, and chip. Any imput would help thanks.
 

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If you only plan on simple bolt ons go with the vr6. If you plan on spending some money later on then go with the 1.8t

For mild tuning only I think you would be happier with the vr6.
 

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I have to disagree. I have driven a 24V VR6 with similar mods and i think that a 1.8T with Chip, CAI, Full exhaust will give you at least 235-240 hp at where as VR6 will only give you 225-230 hp and remember the VR6 is heavier so with a chipped 1.8T you can easily take a a VR6.

Now the R32 is completely different Animal. If i were to buy a GTI i would seriously look at an R32. If you had a BMW before i would really look closely to R32. I test drove one last week and i almost traded my car in even after all these mods that i have on my car.

So 3.2L v6 is something you may want to take a look But if you want to chose between the 2.8L VR6 and 1.8T then 1.8T would be my suggestion.

Take care and good luck with your new car. Keep us posted
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GTI152:
a chipped 1.8T you can easily take a a VR6.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I disagree with that. It would by no means be a big margin.

The 1.8t is maxed out at abour 225hp on the Ko3.
The vr6 with pulleys, chip, intake, exhaust will outpower the 1.8t.

Like I said, if he plans on putting more then $1500ish into performance then go with the 1.8t. If he just wants a quick engine with basic bolt ons and a more reliable engine then go with a vr6.

It isn't uncommon for the 1.8t to blow a clutch or a turbo before 50k miles.
Do not get me wrong, I love the 1.8t, if he is going to spend more then 2000$ with the engine then I'd tell him 1.8t without a question.


The 3.2l is a different story.

[ March 14, 2004: Message edited by: 98a4 ]
 

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There is no inexpensive route to making substantial gains with the VR6 that I have seen. You either have to dump a lot of cash into building up the motor or you have to spend not as much but still a lot to do FI on it. Still a solid engine stock though (particularly the 24v).
 

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The 24V with work can be one tough engine to beat. It has displacement on its side, as well as double the valves over the 12V engine. My modified 12V beats a stock 24V...but put the same work into a 24V as I have in my 12V and it would own me any day of the week. The 24V also pulls harder because it has a 6 speed with shorter gear ratios...it also has the torque at lower RPMs that only extra cylinders and displacement can give you. The 1.8T is also a marvel of engineering...a few simple mods on a 1.8T can get you to 200 wheel HP. Thats something the VR6 can't really lay claim to. However, once you hit the plateau with bolt-ons for both engines, it gets expensive to take them to the next level. For the 1.8T, its a larger turbo..for the VR6, its adding one, or a supercharger...
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>

The vr6 with pulleys, chip, intake, exhaust will outpower the 1.8t.


[ March 14, 2004: Message edited by: 98a4 ][/QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

For the record...I still have YET to lose to a 24V with identical mods...from a start or in the 1/4.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by cyaneye:
For the record...I still have YET to lose to a 24V with identical mods...from a start or in the 1/4.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'd be willing to bet its been close every time tho.
And 90% of it is driver skill, perhaps your just an exceptional driver...
 
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