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OK throwing out everything i ever thought about and consentrating on an ABA swap... so... as much of a moron i am when it comes to this swap i know 2 things, it can be done and done cheap. but what i want to know is how it can be done? im looking to you Fourt1thirty for one of your wonderful step by step break downs... and what Exactly do I need to preform this.
 

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I think TT's website has a how to. Its an easy swap, most shops do it for 1500-2000$ but you can pick up all the parts you need for <500$. This topic was just adressed in a post, check for that. Arron, fill us in please
 

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didn't you just ask that question in another post like a week ago. either way. are you looking for a how to on pulling out your motor or just what needs to be done for the aba to go in? get a manual for the how to on your ar. and when Aaron remembers what wire needs to be moved on your fuse box then all you need to do is drop in the new motor. get a manual and you should be able to figure most of it out. good luck
 

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Damn... didn't know I was this popular.

Sorry guys... this x-mas tree lot thing has been beating the hell out of me. I work like 80 hour weeks... and sleep there every other night. But it's all done tomorrow... and I get to walk with almost $3000 cash in my pocket.

So... In the form or a complete ABA swap... or just the short block?

If you want to do it the "right" but usually more expensive way... with the whole motor and wiring harness... start looking for places that sell rebuilders, as in whole cars. Usually a mk3 Golf or Jetta will run about $900. You want a '93-'95 with a stick, they're OBD1, they have dual valve springs, forged cranks, and piston oil squirters.

Parting out what you don't need will bring you down to just a few hundred bucks for the whole swappy swap. Keep the engine, wiring harness, ecu, and the front brakes and master cylinder (they're 10.1s and a 22mm master, and they bolt on). I'm guessing you have A/C... which you can make work. Just use all the MK3 accessories if I remember correctly.

If you get a real hair up your ass I guess you could swap out the MK3 subframe and use the fancy hydraulic motor mounts... but I'd probably stick with the mk2 stuff. The engine will bolt right in.

If you use your tranny, use your clutch. If you use the mk3 tranny, use the mk3 clutch.

Use the mk3 exhaust manifold and downpipe.

I've heard that the little dampener on the throttle body hits the hood on some peoples cars. It's ok to remove it on a fairly stock motor. If you plan on running a huge cam or a heavily ported head you'll probably have stalling problems. It seems to fit on some peoples cars... probably people with shot motor mounts.

As for the wiring.. yeah, I've forgotten what wire it is. Yellow seems to ring a bell. I'll ask my buddy Mike... he's more of a wiring man than me, he'll remember. He's done the ABA thing more than me. He'll confirm the accesories too.

If however you want to do the swap the cheap and more popular way... the write-up on the TT webpage pretty much covers it. I've found long blocks for as cheap at $350 delivered.

[ December 22, 2003: Message edited by: Fourt1thirty ]
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Fourt1thirty:
Damn... didn't know I was this popular.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think it was that V-Dub Tuning blast from awhile back.
 

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Fourt1thiry or any other users quick question!!! If I do use this bottom end I have read articles that a 93-95 2.0 bottom end with my 92 8 valve head that the center valve will hit the pistons? Also Read that it takes a different timing belt? are there any problems with this? also does the bell housing couple up with no problems? and why do i need a mk3 exhaust manifold? I have a mk2 header
 
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