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hi to all i come seeking help... this is my first vw and i havent even gotten to drive it yet so any help would be great thanks
95 jetta gl 2.0 will not start, has new: coil, plugs, plug wires, distributor, cap, rotor, cps, ecu, ignition, battery....I get one spark when first turning the key then it cranks and cranks and cranks every once and awhile it pops then backfires (lit up my driveway with about 4 foot flame) then goes back to cranking...has fuel and fuel pressure.. really getting agrivated with all this. i pulled codes from obd1 port and comes up that the cps is still bad even tho i just bought a brand new one. ive also checked the grounds at the block and cleaned them....any help would be great thanks, patience are wearing thin lol:fen:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
update:

update: well after being frustrated i decided to just keep cranking the motor, would let it crank for a bit then stop it then do it again and so on and so on ... as i kept doing this for a really long time it started gaining spark little by little till it eventually wanted to run but only while the starter was engaged, while it was engaged you could get throttle response but as soon as you let the key return to run position it would shut off. kept doing that for awhile and finally it ran on its own after key returned to run position but runs really rough like on 1 or 2 cylinders... kept trying till finally runs on four cylinders still a lil rough but cuts out when given throttle at 1000-1500 rpms let sit running for a little time and rpm cut out rises to about 2000-2500rpms and so on. i then drove it around my neighborhood for a bit but cuts out at 3500rpm in every gear. next day the same process needs to be repeated just to get car started..... any thoughts??? anyone?
 

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From what you are describing I would start hunting on the fuel side of things. It almost sounds like a weak fuel pump or plugged fuel filter.

D.
 

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update: well after being frustrated i decided to just keep cranking the motor, would let it crank for a bit then stop it then do it again and so on and so on ... as i kept doing this for a really long time it started gaining spark little by little till it eventually wanted to run but only while the starter was engaged, while it was engaged you could get throttle response but as soon as you let the key return to run position it would shut off. kept doing that for awhile and finally it ran on its own after key returned to run position but runs really rough like on 1 or 2 cylinders... kept trying till finally runs on four cylinders still a lil rough but cuts out when given throttle at 1000-1500 rpms let sit running for a little time and rpm cut out rises to about 2000-2500rpms and so on. i then drove it around my neighborhood for a bit but cuts out at 3500rpm in every gear. next day the same process needs to be repeated just to get car started..... any thoughts??? anyone?
OK, I'd say the old: "fuel, spark, air" saying too and look at the fuel sending system to insure you've got good pressure first. But, I'd like to go out on a limb here and say you may have an exhaust issue. My bro-in-law had an issue with his Gen III 2.0 and it was the catalytic converter and its related O2 sensor; wouldn't allow the car to start well and certainly not run over the RPMs you're stating.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My guess would be crankshaft position sensor.
Yea forgot to mention that is also new...
Further looking into things we found that the fuel filter was not fully attached to the fuel line (or vise versa) and was spewing fuel out...sooo when I get time to get back to it ill check that... Also there isn't a cat on the car but O2sensor is mounted inline on exhaust...
 

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ok, this weekend i got the car to pretty much start on command lol the only thing i seem to be running into is cut out at around 3500-4000rpms.... nay thoughts? fuel pressure is good spark is good air flows right...idk also how do you go about finding out what motor is in your car, sounds funny i know, but i tried getting some things at the bone yard today and found out that all the other 2.0 motors were different than mine being that i have a different connector on my throttle body and also an extra pig tail that connects down under the throttle body..
 

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You can find the engine code if you lift up the rug in your trunk and find the sticker on the metal near the spare tire that has the different engine/trans/paint codes. I suspect that the odd differences between your engine and the others is the fact that before 1996 cars had with OBD1 for computer diagnostics and starting 96 on cars went over to OBD2.

I own a pre-96.5 golf 2.0 and a post 96.5 golf 2.0 and I haven't gotten a good eyeball on any OBD1 ABA engines. I know that the internals on the head on the OBD1 cars are slightly different and I suspect that these small differences you are talking about are due to the fact that all cars went over to a different diagnostic system starting 1996. I know people put OBD1 heads on cars 96 and on because stock they have higher lift than the OBD2 heads and its a bit better for putting in a camshaft without having to change valve springs etc. I am not sure about the compatibility specifics between the OBD1 and OBD2 engine components (such as the different connectors on the throttle body you mentioned)
 

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You can find the engine code if you lift up the rug in your trunk and find the sticker on the metal near the spare tire that has the different engine/trans/paint codes. I suspect that the odd differences between your engine and the others is the fact that before 1996 cars had with OBD1 for computer diagnostics and starting 96 on cars went over to OBD2.
thanks for that response...:D
UPDATE: i have the car running now but im experiencing rpm cut out at 3000rpms and some gears a little higher near 4200rpm, anyone have any thoughts on this? i can fix things just fine, im just really not good at diagnostics lol
 

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I had a similar issue with my car. The timing was off and the plug wires were on wrong. The diagram for the plug wires I used was incorrect. The timing caused a studded at higher rpm's. Also the cap being out of position 180 degrees or so can cause similar issues.
 
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