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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody,
Just changed brake pads and rotors on my 2001 VW Golf. Retracted the pistons with that nice special tool and everything worked great; after pumping the pedal the brakes worked great. Except for the emergency brake. Right Rear wheel brakes strong when e-brake is pulled. The left can still be rotated with force. I've had that problem since I bought the car; it's as if the left cable is about an inch longer than the right and even made the right wire jump out of the clamp that retracts the wires when the handle is pulled. I had to open up the e-brake cover several times to hook the right wire back in. When I changed pads I noticed that the right pads were more used than the left ones. Which brings me to the following question: How is the tension of these wires adjusted? There was neither a screw near the handle (except for general tension for L and R together) nor inside the wheels were it comes out. I was wondering whether it's directly controlled by the piston casing position, the casing that is rotated for retraction. Does anybody know how to adjust the tension? THX TImo
 

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brakes on the passenger side "right side" of the car will wear a little faster then the driver side due to there being more pot holes and debree twords the shoulder
 

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wahh i had the same problem and im still having it a lil, i changed my breaks and then i pulled my e break and the car didnt stop so i pulled it as much as i can and i snaped a cable loool i changed the cable and the e break works but it does not stop the car 100% ne more
 

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brakes on the passenger side "right side" of the car will wear a little faster then the driver side due to there being more pot holes and debree twords the shoulder
Ummm...what? Sure you aren't thinking about tires?
 

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Ummm...what? Sure you aren't thinking about tires?
same goes for disc brakes. think about all that crap between your rotor and pads. all the hot spots and scars to material
 

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Hmm. I'm not convinced, that more than an inch difference and that difference of brake power of the e-brake on left vs right wheel are normal. I could tighten the e-brake like hell but as moezer said, at some point the right will snap at the the end of the handle. And of course the wear of the right side will increase which is a waste of fuel and material. Do you guys know whether the brake cylinder casing has an effect on the e-brake possition?
 

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If you are not the fist owner of the car, any number of reasons why are out there, junkyard parts form the wrong model being the first option. "Length" adjustment can be done at the "compensator" insid the cabin of the car right here:



take a look at that and see if the V fiting is maybe pulled completly to one side, this Can happen when you relaese one side of the cable doing the brakes and then it could get stuck on something in there.

If you are still worried that the E-brake will not engage correctly, or hold your car on an incline/decline when parked, repkace it with a new one. GL
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you are not the fist owner of the car, any number of reasons why are out there, junkyard parts form the wrong model being the first option. "Length" adjustment can be done at the "compensator" insid the cabin of the car right here:



take a look at that and see if the V fiting is maybe pulled completly to one side, this Can happen when you relaese one side of the cable doing the brakes and then it could get stuck on something in there.
Thanks for that answer. I've opened the whole cover serveral times and that metal clamp that holds both wires is askew due to one wire being more than an inch longer than the other. I hoped that it's something else but if the length of the cables is really different that would suck. I guess I have to see whether it's worth the effort of replacing these wires.
Thanks again. Timo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is the metal piece askew because the wire is an inch longer, or is the wire an inch longer because the metal peice is askew?

take them both out and measure the wires. If they are different lengths they might have been modified or be the wrong ones.
Taking out the wires sounds like fun. Do you have a nice diy for the wires? I'm afraid of not getting them back in once they're out.
I was wondering about the pistons of the calipers. Do you know if you have to turn them while pressing them back because the piston would retract askew or because the piston has a cylinder on the outside with threads that cause the retraction?

Measuring the wires is a good idea I think. Thought about shortening the long wire with a cable clamp but I'd prefer a clean solution so that I don't have to worry about the clamp jumping out of the metalpiece near the handle.
 

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Maybe one cable has streched some how? my cable snaped beacuse it was a bit rusty lol but as i said before i pulled it all the way and the car moved still when i changed the brakes but i broke the damn thing and 80 bucks later i had a new cable lol
 

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Solved. It was the sheath

I had a look at it again, tried to adjust the threaded rod inside the caliper pistons. It wasn't that rod since both pistons (l/R) relaxed to max. But I found something else:


So it wasn't the rod and both cables are the same length. But the sheath for the left cable corroded and collapsed causing the left cable to be longer.
Got me two new cables from partsgeek for 30$ and that's it.

Thanks again for your replies.

Timo
 
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