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I was just wondering how much boost is safe to run with 1.8t stock motor with just a K&N cone filter and cat back exhaust. I'm planning on picking up a manuel boost controller and have a boost gauge but im not sure what to set it at.
 

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the only "safe" level is the stock level, which in our case is 10 psi. for the split second boost controller you can run at the maximum, 14.5 psi, but it eventually wears down the life of your turbo.

many people on here, like big dong, run at 15 + psi and it seems to be okay.(they are chipped)

when you get your boost controller make sure you replace your diverter valve b/c running that much pressure from the turbo will cause the dv to eventually fail.

[ January 05, 2004: Message edited by: 1point8T ]
 

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Isn't the draw back from the boost controler that timing and mixture isn't change? i noticed when i had my SS BCS that 14.5 didn't feel anything like the 15-17 psi i'm getting with the APR chip.
jon
 

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You're better off saving a couple hundred more dollars and gettign a chip, you'll get much better results, and it will also remove the rev limiter, top speed limiter, and improve your throttle response.
 

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If you are going for cheap, quick gains with the boost controller, I'd say scrap it and get a chip. The chip is gonna adjust more than just boost pressure and is a good bang for the buck. If you wanna go the boost controller setup, you are gonna need an AFC also to truly get good gains. You're looking at spending close to 1000 dollars on the AFC and BCC which is twice the price of a chip. If you're going to be putting a custom turbo setup on the car later and want to be able to fine tune things such as rpm specific boost control, and rpm specific air/fuel mixtures, multiple maps, etc. then go for the BCC and AFC setup.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Straz85:
You're better off saving a couple hundred more dollars and gettign a chip, you'll get much better results, and it will also remove the rev limiter, top speed limiter, and improve your throttle response.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

He speaks only the truth!

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gti20thAEinDE:
If you are going for cheap, quick gains with the boost controller, I'd say scrap it and get a chip. The chip is gonna adjust more than just boost pressure and is a good bang for the buck. If you wanna go the boost controller setup, you are gonna need an AFC also to truly get good gains. You're looking at spending close to 1000 dollars on the AFC and BCC which is twice the price of a chip. If you're going to be putting a custom turbo setup on the car later and want to be able to fine tune things such as rpm specific boost control, and rpm specific air/fuel mixtures, multiple maps, etc. then go for the BCC and AFC setup.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I could be wrong on this I guess, but I don't know of anyone that has gotten an AFC system to work in a drive by wire 1.8T.....
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Big Dong:

I could be wrong on this I guess, but I don't know of anyone that has gotten an AFC system to work in a drive by wire 1.8T.....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, there are a couple throttle-cable conversion kits out there that you'd probably need to use. If you're gonna be running a BCC and AFC, you're porbably be gonna doing some serious work to your car.

Here's from Apexi: "On hot-wire vehicles, the Deceleration Air Flow Correction function is capable of curing the erratic idle and stall problems associated with open-atmosphere blow-off valves on hot-wire air-flow meter systems."


BCC - Boost Control Computer (electronic boost control rather than manual)

AFC - Air / Fuel computer (uses the MAF readings to adjust the air/fuel ratio. Can be set to different rpm ranges to match boost controller settings)
 
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