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Some of you might remember that right before H2O I posted about my CEL coming on, well it has been coming on now and then since then, and now it's on more often than not. I did some testing today to see if I can get any more info, and here is what I have so far:

Started when I had my car inspected (the guy claims he did not touch my emissions). The CEL came on when I left the gas station, and the little red computer thing (forget the name) said "Emissions workshop." Came on a month or so later, same deal, went off the next day. Now it will be on for 2 or 3 days, then off for 1. A few days ago I got the same smell I had right before my coils were replaced (Rotten eggs), but that only happened once for like 15 or 20 minutes, didn't happen before, hasn't happened since. Also, when I start my car, the CEL will come on, and then when it gets up to 3000 RPM's or so for a few seconds, it says "Emissions Workshop." So tonight I did an experiment; I drove home from work (about 4 miles) and kept it under 2k RMP's the whole way, CEL on, but no "Emissions Workshop."

My thoughts: Maybe my cat is gone, and when my RPM's get that high, the exhaust is getting so clogged up that I'm getting the light. Only thing about that is I would expect a lot of power loss, but it's running fine. Also, I would think if it was the coilpacks, O2 sensor, or MAF sensor it would run crappy. Any other ideas? I'm sort of hoping for the cat, good excuse for a high flow cat
 

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Unplug your MAF and see if it runs any better. You will see the ASR light if you do this, but it should be fine and will turn off when you plug it back in.

If this does not fix anything, I would be willing to bet it's your O2 sensors. Have you run leaded race fuel in your car? Anything above 104 octane is leaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Big Dong:
Unplug your MAF and see if it runs any better.

Have you run leaded race fuel in your car? Anything above 104 octane is leaded.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's running fine now, so unplugging the MAF can't make it run any better really. And no race gas either. And if it was the MAF or the O2 sensor wouldn't it be running crappy now?
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by db:
Yes. I'm on my third MAF, and if your wondering after the 2nd blown one I went back to the stock air box.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What did you have on there that was messing up the mass airflow sensor? CAI? I thought you had the carbonio before and those aren't supposed to mess anyhing up(according to the website)...
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tommunist:
What did you have on there that was messing up the mass airflow sensor? CAI? I thought you had the carbonio before and those aren't supposed to mess anyhing up(according to the website)...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think db had a short ram intake, not sure though.
 

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The CAI itself doesnt mess up the MAF, usually its the oil on the cone filter.

It may run crappy, but it may not. It could be pulling timing though to prevent it from happening and you probably wouldn't notice it alot if its pulling timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RafCarre12:
Hey Brett,
Ask Tom to hook you up with a scan whenever you pick up the bar.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, I thought about that. Unfortunately I'm going to be away from Wednesday - a week from sunday, so I think my girlfriend's picking it up from him and bringing it back after thanksgiving for me.

How much does a new MAF run?

Also, I barely had any oil on my filter, if that matters at all. I was VERY careful when I cleaned it last for this exact reason.
 

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Brett...do yourself a favor...
Step 1: Get yourself some security torx bits. (The have a hole in the middle)
Step 2: Buy a MAF for an AEG engine code 2.0
Step 3: Remove the sensor portions from each MAF, old and new.
Step 4: Install 2.0 MAF sensor portion into VR6 MAF Housing
Step 5: Drive away, saving $350. (Cause VR6 MAFs are expensive!

If you aren't too modified, and aren't over 70,000 miles, a new Tech bulletin came out at VW...MAFs are now warrantied on 2001->1999 VWs....yours is included...The warranty extends the MAFs to 7 years/70,000 miles....

Hope that helps, its sure to be good news to you.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GTIVR62801:
Brett...do yourself a favor...
Step 1: Get yourself some security torx bits. (The have a hole in the middle)
Step 2: Buy a MAF for an AEG engine code 2.0
Step 3: Remove the sensor portions from each MAF, old and new.
Step 4: Install 2.0 MAF sensor portion into VR6 MAF Housing
Step 5: Drive away, saving $350. (Cause VR6 MAFs are expensive!

If you aren't too modified, and aren't over 70,000 miles, a new Tech bulletin came out at VW...MAFs are now warrantied on 2001->1999 VWs....yours is included...The warranty extends the MAFs to 7 years/70,000 miles....

Hope that helps, its sure to be good news to you.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I take something like a CAI would ruin that extended warranty?
 

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As long as you go to a dealer that doesn't care, no. If your dealer is anal about it, switch back to the stock air box before going in for the repair. Simple as that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GTIVR62801:
Brett...do yourself a favor...
Step 1: Get yourself some security torx bits. (The have a hole in the middle)
Step 2: Buy a MAF for an AEG engine code 2.0
Step 3: Remove the sensor portions from each MAF, old and new.
Step 4: Install 2.0 MAF sensor portion into VR6 MAF Housing
Step 5: Drive away, saving $350. (Cause VR6 MAFs are expensive!

If you aren't too modified, and aren't over 70,000 miles, a new Tech bulletin came out at VW...MAFs are now warrantied on 2001->1999 VWs....yours is included...The warranty extends the MAFs to 7 years/70,000 miles....

Hope that helps, its sure to be good news to you.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thank you so much, that really helps a lot. I will try the dealership (Not for a couple weeks though, going to FL in a few days) and let you know what comes of it.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GTIVR62801:
As long as you go to a dealer that doesn't care, no. If your dealer is anal about it, switch back to the stock air box before going in for the repair. Simple as that.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How long does it take to:
1. put the CAI in
and
2. take the CAI and put the stock airbox back in
?

And can they tell if you've been switching stuff around?

I'm not sure if my garage around here is cool with it or what and not sure the best way to find out....
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tommunist:
How long does it take to:
1. put the CAI in
and
2. take the CAI and put the stock airbox back in
?

And can they tell if you've been switching stuff around?

I'm not sure if my garage around here is cool with it or what and not sure the best way to find out....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


1. It took me about 2 hours to put my CAI in but that was because i was taking my time and it was the first time i ever took off the bumper or removed the battery so now i could prob do it in an hour or less.

2. took about 45 min cause i kept dropping stuff into my engine bay and it was getting dark outside so i had a hard time finding it. u dont need to remove the battery or bumper for this one.

3. Probably not, as long as u dont break anything, i broke the breather hose going to my stock airbox and the next time i was at the dealership they fixed it for me for free
 

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i went through similar problems with my mk3 jetta and the MAF and o2 sensors. i am on my third MAF and jus replaced the o2 sensors a few months back. my car ran horribly when the o2's went out. i noticed it took a good bit of driving to get the car to run good without sputturing and power lags again after the new ones were put in.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So my car is acting even crazier than before. This morning I left for work, and the CEL was not on, then after about 3 miles or so, the ASR and EPC lights came on and I got a "Engine Workship!" message. Then I left work 6 hours later, and just the ASR light was on, but no messages. Maybe that will help me get a more definitive answer...
 

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MY CAR SOMETIMES SPUTTERS AT LOW RPMS WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, AND I GET ALT OF THE BAD MAF/02 SYMPTOMS BUT NEVER GET A LIGHT ? ALSO I GOT A CALL FROM PETE MOORE VW IN PENSACOLA FL THE OTHER DAY OUT OF THE BLUE SAYING THAT I NEED TO TAKE MY CAR IN TO HAVE THE TIMING CHAIN FIXED AND MY WHOLE TRANNY SYNCRO PROBLEM FIXED (I GUESS ALL MY COMPLAINING TO VWOA PAID OFF!), AND I FIGURED ID SAY SOMTHING ABOUT THESE WHILE I AM OVER THERE IF THEY SOUND LIKE THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED TO YALL!
 
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