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get forge diverter valve (007, 00 8) or forge splitter. BOV will more than likely make your car run like shit
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I actually posted that after I bought and installed the BOV. 30-45 minutes after installing it, I got 3 codes, P2008, 2015 and 0172...2 are for intake manifold runner and 1 is bank 1 too rich. I contacted Forge they said it is not related to the BOV. I just don't see how after less than an hour my flapper motor (variable intake manifold actuator or adjusting valve...whatever you want to call it) would take a shit. I know the units were bad and warrantied early on, and I am unable to verify the part # to see if it was already replaced as it's in the shop getting a clutch.

I'm hoping it is just that motor though, I already got the replacement coming just in case. ECS price matched UroTuning.com's price of $139.99. If it doesn't get rid of the codes I guess I will be taking the BOV off.
 

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Hi,

1) can you explain what a forge BOV is? and why I would want one?
2) P2015 is definitively a bad intake manifold (06J-133-201-AS) , I am currently on my fourth manifold counting the original as well. Almost to the point it is a consumable item! Not too difficult to replace if you have the right set of tools.
Cheers,
 

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I actually posted that after I bought and installed the BOV. 30-45 minutes after installing it, I got 3 codes, P2008, 2015 and 0172...2 are for intake manifold runner and 1 is bank 1 too rich. I contacted Forge they said it is not related to the BOV. I just don't see how after less than an hour my flapper motor (variable intake manifold actuator or adjusting valve...whatever you want to call it) would take a shit. I know the units were bad and warrantied early on, and I am unable to verify the part # to see if it was already replaced as it's in the shop getting a clutch.


I'm hoping it is just that motor though, I already got the replacement coming just in case. ECS price matched UroTuning.com's price of $139.99. If it doesn't get rid of the codes I guess I will be taking the BOV off.
Chances are it was. Its because your car expects the air from the diverter valve to be sent back into the engine. but since you have a blow off valve, its vents into into the atmosphere instead.



Hi,

1) can you explain what a forge BOV is? and why I would want one?
2) P2015 is definitively a bad intake manifold (06J-133-201-AS) , I am currently on my fourth manifold counting the original as well. Almost to the point it is a consumable item! Not too difficult to replace if you have the right set of tools.
Cheers,
A blow off valve vents the extra turbo pressure into the atmosphere. these cars were made for diverter valves, which vent the air back into the engine. so when you have a BOV on thee, the engine expects the air to come back in, and when it doesnt, the car runs bad. so only get diverter valves.
 

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Blow off valve! As in Pop up valve. I understand the functionality of both style. (Recirculated versus Atmospheric relief), but I fail to see the advantage of one over the other style. Durability? higher boost capability? Sound?
 

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did you not read what I just told you? here, ill copy and paste it for you so you understand.
the important part is bolded for you.

A blow off valve vents the extra turbo pressure into the atmosphere. these cars were made for diverter valves, which vent the air back into the engine. so when you have a BOV on there, the engine expects the air to come back in, and when it doesnt, the car runs bad. so only get diverter valves.

read this whole thread and see the third post as to why you shouldnt run a BOV.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, I spoke to Forge, they swear to me it's not the BOV, the codes I have are the flapper motor has failed. I bought a new motor but have yet to put it in.

For shits and giggles I spoke with ECS Tuning and they said my intake manifold likely has a crack somewhere.

I hooked a code scanner up so I could monitor the short and long fuel trims and when I sprayed ether on the front right of intake manifold, the numbers went from about -1.8 to 3.0. Is this telling me I do indeed have a leak? I can faintly hear air about that same area, but I don't know if it's just my ears looking for a problem.

I don't want to do a job I don't need to. I find it highly odd I would have this fail 30 min after putting the BOV in. I would put my stock DV in to verify but it's broken.

I also had a small evap leak code pop up a week prior to BOV install, but I don't think (hoping) they're not related.
 
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