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Discussion Starter #1
My son's '04 Golf has some weird lighting issues. The center light (over the console) does not light up. The map lights works and the bulb in the center fixture is good. No voltage.....

Also the driver's door light (little red/white light) has no power.

Do Golf's have wiring issues? Could the fixtures themselves be bad? The door light fixture has a diode on the mount. Don't know if the ceiling light does as well. Wondering if I should just replace the fixtures or try to chase wires in the car.

Also, does anyone know where to get reasonably priced replacements for the cords that lift up the rear tray (that attach to the liftgate)?

Thanks
 

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If this is a US model and you post all the particulars I may be able to pull up a schematic.

The diode is for current steering, it doesn't rectify AC in this application.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
'04 4DR GL
2.0 litre

When you open the doors, the driver's side door light and the dome light in the cluster between the front seats do not illuminate. The map lights do work. The passenger side door light works.

I checked the bulbs and they have continuity. There is no 12v on the connectors to the two lights. Since there is supposedly only one fuse for all of the interior lights, can't be the fuse.

The lights over the b-pillars do light up when you unlock the car by the remote. Don't know if they are supposed to come on when you open the doors.
 

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I see there are many lights and switches in your car.
The bad news is that the problem is very likely in what is called "Comfort System Central Control Module."
Price it out from the dealer then decide if you want to replace this yourself or take it to an independent shop. In the name of some Deity don't ever go to a dealer. :D

Here's a decision formula for this gamble with tentative prices.

DIY or HAP (Hire A Pro)

140 >enter parts cost PC in dollars
30 >enter likelihood in percent L of having to HAP after you buy the part
300 >enter probable HAP cost in dollars
230 = your calc'd DIY cost CDIY = PC + (HAP x L/100)
so in this case choose DIY
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Found used ones online for $120 range. Now I just have to find out where it is in the car. Looks like I have to buy a manual.
 

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Found used ones online for $120 range. Now I just have to find out where it is in the car. Looks like I have to buy a manual.
I don't know how you will confirm that it works.

Haynes/Chilton may have a manual for the car but their schematics may be a bit too general.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Found the module, under the driver's side knee panel. I am going to do the battery disconnect reset thing that works for some people (disconnect battery, short red and black leads together to discharge any residual charge, reconnect). This seems to work a surprising number of times. If not, I'll get a module from eBay.
 

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Found the module, under the driver's side knee panel. I am going to do the battery disconnect reset thing that works for some people (disconnect battery, short red and black leads together to discharge any residual charge, reconnect). This seems to work a surprising number of times. If not, I'll get a module from eBay.
If that does change the symptoms then almost certainly it is the module.

I now recall from my Decision Theory book that it is good practice to list all the possible causes for this first, and then test each with a multimeter if you can. Just listing all these causes can be challenging.
Even if a module were only $10 I still might do this, reason being there may be a fault external to the module that caused it to fail.
Troubleshooting by replacing the module assumes the fault originated in the module. In this case I think that is 'more likely than not' (as opposed to the higher standards of evidence called 'clear and convincing' or 'beyond a reasonable doubt'). :D
 
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