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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

To start, I just bought a 2001 GTi VR6 12V Golf for $600 and was told it runs real rough because the coolant mixture was not correct and it froze. I was able to start and drive the car, it seemed to idle ok but would bog and stall during take-off and acceleration. Checked compression (but the car wasn't warm, just in garage) where I found cyl 3 and 4 (front and rear middle cylinders) to be at 60psi where the others were around 145. Also, exhaust smoke is coming in through vents. Here are the codes recorded:
P1151- Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch – Sensor Indicates Lean – Bank No. 2
P0506- Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0300- Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0303- Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304- Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1296- No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor
P0606- ECM/PCM Processor

I do not have a VAG-COM and the car is on stands and engine is pretty naked, so this is what I have to work with.

I've taken the intake manifold along with injectors and such, valve cover and side timing chain cover off. Found a broken timing chain guide rail. To the best of my diagnostic abilities go, I believe the head gasket developed a leak near cyl 3 and 4 (thus their shared psi of 60).

Any additional insight would be greatly appreciated, and I will continue to take the head off once I feel it is necessary.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Kris
 

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Dang. This sounds like a nightmare.
Kinda like the snowmobile i just got with a "new topend"
went 40 miles and there was a chunk of metal floating around in there. ruined the new piston on one side. so YES he rebuilt it but didnt do a good job of cleaning old piston fragments out of the crankcase.
rebuilt it myself and now have 200mi on it. fingers crossed.

best of luck to you with this. PICS,. I want to see the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's obviously a head gasket. Who ever said it was coolant froze was taking you for a ride.
I don't think he was trying to hoodwink me cause I bought the car for $600 and everything but the motor is pristine. He said he had just finished putting this motor in as well as the coolant. Came out the next morning and a coolant hose had came off from expansion of the water during freeze. I also think it is the headgasket but if we can come to a different conclusion, I would rather not remove the head and have to replace the gasket and such.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dang. This sounds like a nightmare.
best of luck to you with this. PICS,. I want to see the outcome.
I just might do that and take some pics. I don't know if a blown headgasket would explain the exhaust coming in through the air vents. I think I've read somewhere that it has something to do with the heater core.
 

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Is the "exhaust" that is coming through the vents sweet smelling? If it has a sweet smell, then it is more than likely a heater core problem also. I think your compression problem sounds like a possible head gasket also. Have you checked the oil to see if it is mixed with water/coolant at all? Also, is there any excessive smoke coming out of the exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am now the proud owner of the answer; completely cracked blocked across ALL cylinders. I am curious though to know if the block cracked from coolant mixture expansion. We do know that freeze-thaws crack boulders, so it seems very possible.

Now it is time to determine the best approach financially. Should I look for a used block that is in spec and get rings, gaskets, journal bearing, etc? Let me know if any of you have done a rebuild that includes that basic scope of work and how much you spent. I know I can get a used motor with less than 120k miles for $900.

Thanks,

Kris
 

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jesus, that's a new one.
VR6's are bricks. Just find one without head issues, replace the timing chain and guides and drop it in.

I'm sure that head is toast also... Completely warped from being ran with a cracked block I would imagine. You can get it measured if you want but that cost money unless you do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
jesus, that's a new one.
VR6's are bricks. Just find one without head issues, replace the timing chain and guides and drop it in.

I'm sure that head is toast also... Completely warped from being ran with a cracked block I would imagine. You can get it measured if you want but that cost money unless you do it yourself.
I was a machinist for two years so lucky me I can check it. I actually have a spare head from a motor who's cyl 6 con rod blew through the side of the block. All crank journals and even the crank survived that ordeal. That motor went through a hydro-lock from the guy who ran a street-sweeper intake. It sounds crazy but I was considering welding that block (if I find out I can in fact weld cast iron) and reusing that motor.
 

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You are one ambitious son of a gun. I like the attitude.

Hydrolock makes much more sense. It's the extremely rapid temp difference that gets a motor to bust not a slow change like the weather or running it to operating temp and letting it cool.

I wouldn't bother trying to reuse that block. For how much you would have into it when you could probably pick up a bare block for pennies.
 
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