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Discussion Starter #1
First off I want to thank you for reading this, and any and all suggestions are appreciated. I will try to keep it short, but I need to explain my problems and what I've tried thus far.

2001 VW Beetle AWV, 175k, K04, Exhaust, APR Div, ARP Headstuds, APR Tuning, Samco? silcone piping. Had FMIC, homemade piping, battery in trunk. Got sick of it and put alot of the stuff back to stock. Internals I've replaced the timing belt and water pump TWICE in the last 15k. (First water pump started leaking and replaced timing belt broke. :rocket: )

So I got married, got the car all fixed up worked like a charm, drove it 2k miles. Get home, back out of new driveway, hit ditch and POP break rad support off of rad. Replace with aftermarket radiator and it has never been the same since. It started over heating and low oil light would sometimes come on for 2-3 sec. So replaced thermostat, nothing (sometimes could get to circulate but never held a temp, if i slowed rpm heat would suddenly start going up). So I got the brilliant idea it was sludge, replaced oil pump, pickup, seals, and cleaned pan, filled with oil (replaced t coolant pipe on side of head so filled with coolant also) Took off thinking I was king of the world, the only dif was that the oil light was coming on every time you started it now it wouldn't, just if you left idling. Still didn't cool.

Oh, it has a little erch, erch, erch, noise when idling and under a load while accelerating it goes tick, tick, tick, but stops as soon as there is no load.

This is about the time I said I have done enough googling and blowing money on this piece of *BLEEP* I am going to humble myself and ask for help. Any Ideas?

PS Sorry about the grammer, I just don't feel like taking the time to make it perfect. If you don't understand something please ask.

I am wondering if it is head gasket (which I replace once already), or worn out crank or cam bearings.
 

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First off I want to thank you for reading this.
You're welcome. :cool:

POP break rad support off of rad. Replace with aftermarket radiator and it has never been the same since. It started over heating and low oil light would sometimes come on for 2-3 sec. So replaced thermostat, nothing (sometimes could get to circulate but never held a temp, if i slowed rpm heat would suddenly start going up).
Properly bleeding and filling the coolant system might be your problem here, it's been opened up several times and likely there is a ton of air in there.
What brand is the radiator. It could be an inferior radiator design for this car.

Do your fans come on. During idle the car is going to head up, there isn't air flow around the radiator. It's possible you missed a plug or something putting the fans back on or they could have been damaged in the crash. Allow the car to heat up or hit the A/C button. Fans should kick on from at least one of the two.

I would rule out the water pump and t-stat if you just replaced them. It's a 50/50 shot to tell if the t-stat isn't working unless you pull it out and test it, during an overheating situation. The heat will keep it open, and when a t-stat fails it gets stuck open or closed. You could grab the bottom radiator hose when the car is at running temp and starting to over heat. Turn the car off before it gets too hot so you don't run the risk of overheating while you check.
If the bottom hose is much, much colder then t-stat could be stuck close.
Which would say yes it has failed definately.

Oh, it has a little erch, erch, erch, noise when idling and under a load while accelerating it goes tick, tick, tick, but stops as soon as there is no load.
Check axle clearance. Could be suspension, axle, squirrels in the trunk, transmission(diff), really anything.

Quite frankly when people make sounds to explain it's difficult already, in text it falls on it's face.
Easier explination is like a metal on metal rubbing sound. Maybe it clicks or is a constant noise. By the sound you can tell if it's something that spins and makes a constant sound, noticeably varying by either engine, trans or wheel speed. Which would help you find it faster.

Explained further or a video would help a lot.

I am wondering if it is head gasket (which I replace once already), or worn out crank or cam bearings.
There are many, many things to look at before you go digging into the bottom end of the motor again.

It's very possible the excessive heat on the block is doing damage to the oil.
I would hit the motor up with some oil cleaner and some synthetic oil possibly now, but surely once you figure out this over heating problem.
 

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what about the oil cooler? when you hit the ditch you may have messed something up in there as well, the oil cooler has the coolant and the oil tied into each other
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Properly bleeding and filling the coolant system might be your problem here, it's been opened up several times and likely there is a ton of air in there.
What brand is the radiator. It could be an inferior radiator design for this car.
Not sure on the brand, VW dealer got it in for me. I will check around on the best way to properly bleed my system and get back with you.

Do your fans come on. During idle the car is going to head up, there isn't air flow around the radiator. It's possible you missed a plug or something putting the fans back on or they could have been damaged in the crash. Allow the car to heat up or hit the A/C button. Fans should kick on from at least one of the two.
Yes both fans work perfectly, when it gets hot and on A/C.

squirrels in the trunk
I love it, made me grin and forget about the lemon under the hood.

:edit:
Skimmer0220, You posted while I was writing my epistle. Thanks and I will check that out this afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So I pulled of the resivor cap filled it up and let it idle while topping off for 20 minutes, put on cap and drove it some.It got HOT so I shut it off and popped the cap off and also a little hose that comes off the top close to where the t on the side of the head is. As it cooled I kept it filled because the level kept dropping.

Long story short I eventually got it all bled out, and have now driven it around 20 miles stop and go with no problems. Untill I came to a stop for the last time and was getting ready to shut it off, then the oil light comes on...

I will now hook up Rosstech and see where oil pressure is running at.

To be continued...

:edit:
Oops I found out that the oil pressure sensor is not a variable, but a open/close that cannot be monitored via VCDS...

I have room for 3 gauges, one is already filled with a boost gauge, i will get an oil pressure, and what should I put in the other one? I was thinking EGT.

Oh and where should I get the oil pressure reading from?
 

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At least it's not over heating!

There should be a signal sender on the housing where the oil filter screws into. Right on top.

Good catch on the oil cooler but I don't think these cars have an air to liquid heat exchange for oil. It's a little cooler located right on the block.
 

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At least it's not over heating!

There should be a signal sender on the housing where the oil filter screws into. Right on top.

Good catch on the oil cooler but I don't think these cars have an air to liquid heat exchange for oil. It's a little cooler located right on the block.
yes there is a sender on the oil filter housing that's just a screw, your going to have to remove a bracket that is on the front of the oil filter housing, also make sure it's a m10x1 thread sender, that's the size of the hole and last I would recommend 42 draft design, that's where I got all my stuff for my oil pressure and temp gauge and there kit is very complete to install the gauge
 
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