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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit (convertible
)The private party warned me that in the winter I needed to use a heat additive. It is now summer and I am finding that I can't start the car in the morning. But later in the day after the outside temperature rises, it will start up right away.

I was told it could be the fuel pump. Does anyone else have any suggestions?

The car (I call Eddy) will be going into the shop next week. Eventhough I am of the female gender, I would like to work on the car myself. This is my project car, not my spouses.

Thanks for any information or suggestions,
red rabbit
 

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Try turning the key off and on a few times with out cranking the engine. This should cycle the fuel pump and get fuel up to the engine.

Also you might want to determine if the fuel delivery is the problem or spark.

Also double check distributor, coils, battery connections etc.


Good Luck with your Eddy.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I will try the suggestion of turning the key before actually starting it.

If I am not mistaken, '84 was the first year for the fuel injection.

thanks again for the information,

red rabbit

[ June 28, 2003: Message edited by: red rabbit ]
 

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Has anyone checked the cold start valve, looked for exhaust leaks or leaks in the air intake and vacuum system, or evaluated the ignition and egr systems?

I've worked on 4 different MK1's now, and they all start rough when they're cold. Little leaks and faulty components in the air mixture, vacuum and exhaust systems really negatively impact starting capacity. Once the cars in my fleet warm up, they all run fine.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by red rabbit:
If I am not mistaken, '84 was the first year for the fuel injection.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Try '76. You get the problem fixed yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have that problem fixed but have come across several others.
I have only owned the car since late June. My husband, who I might add didn't want a "project" car. Has since replaced the water reservoir, the clutch cable, then the air conditioner compressor. With this last repair, he replaced the belts and now after driving it for about 30 miles the engine quits when you coast to a stop. Today (sometime) he is going to try and tighten the belts.

It is never a dull moment. I always have a smile on my face-- but never leave home without tennis shoes and fresh water. Just in case I have to walk.

It has been fun and reminds me of my high school years.

(go) red rabbit
 

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I have the same year rabbit convertable that is my project car.I have had it off the road now for about four years now.I won't start driving it again till I know its road worthy.I am not that young anymore and don't feel like walking unless I have too!
Well maybe I just lazy!
 

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Make sure your idle is set high enough to keep the car running when the defrost seting of the heater fan (climate control fan) is turned off. As I understand it, MK1 VW's with air conditioning boost power and engine idle speed when the climate controls are switched to defrost and the climate control fan is turned on. When the defrost fan is on, I think it engages the AC.

At that setting, the radiator fan will turn on, and will stay on as long as the climate controls are on and set to defrost. I'm sure it's got something to do with compensating for the AC load on the engine.

Anyway, I had that problem with my car, and adjusted my idle up a bit so that it ran without the fan on. The idle problem went away. Tighening loose belts certainly can't hurt. I removed my AC from my car, but I use the defrost setting in hot weather and in heavy traffic to keep my car running cooler.

What was the cause of your starting problem?

PS. Good luck!
 

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There should be 2 vacuum solinoids on the passenger strut tower. These are the idle boost solinoids. They open when the a/c is turned on and bring the idle up. It's a good place to start looking.

Also, above it was pointed out to turn the idle up... well, sometimes the idle screw can actually vibrate loose, and if it falls out there isn't enough vacuum to move the metering plate at idle, so the car stalls when you take your foot off the gas. The idle screw will be on the backside of the throttle body, facing the firewall.

I find most Cabriolet/Rabbit convertables have loads of problems because they are generally neglected. My last 3 girlfriends have all had cabbies. Only one of them was in godd shape, and only because it was a '98. The current girlfriend ditched her Cabriolet for a super rare Rabbit S.
 
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