VW Forum banner

Repairs / Upgrades

3K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Xartaf 
#1 ·
Hi everyone, I'm putting some new parts on the car. Since I will be getting my hands dirty I wanted to ask you guys a few lessons learns, like stuff that I should look at while I have some parts removed and some upgrade I could do while I'm at it.


(If I can get some more HP out of the little bits here and there, I'm okay to spend the money if it’s worth it.

1, I got a new serpentine belt and wondering about getting new pulleys, should I just clean the stock one I got or the light weight/low friction aftermarket ones are making that much a difference that I should get them.

2, EGR valve, does it make that much difference performance wise to do a bypass mod on it or just take it off and clean it and put it back?

3, Got new Spark plugs, I hear that I should do the wires at the same time, then again is there high performance wire that are worth the extra bucks and also while I'm there should I upgrade the coil pack if there is such a thing as a better coil pack.

4, Suspension, Coil over and sway bars are on the way, I'm planning to change my rotors and pads while I'm there I have a set sitting at home ( few years ago had to pass an inspection tough it wouldn’t pass it but did so got stuck with them. ) anything that I should be looking at while doing this.

I'm going to be doing this with a help mechanic near but less I bother him better it is for my wallet and me ;) So thank you guys for the Feed Back. Looking forward to get my hands dirty again this summer! :)
 
See less See more
#2 ·
do you have a 1.8t? the 1.8's dont have spark pllug wires, they only have coil packs.. as far as an upgrade, the only upgrade would be to the bolt in hitachi ones if you have the push down style..
i dont have any experience with different pulleys, but from what i've heard, underdrive pulleys are bad for these cars. ecs tuning makes a light weight dampener pulley thats a non underdrive pulley, its going to vibrate more with a lightweight pulley though. not sure how much of a difference it will make.
when your doing your suspension, itll be a good idea to replace your strut bushings, and check out your balljoints and control arm bushings as well.
 
#3 ·
For vw's oem parts are the way to go. Ngk plugs only. No fancy splitfire or champion crap. Plain old copper tops work best. You don't have an egr valve. If you have a 2.0 they do make upgraded plug wires. I ran eurosports on my 8v. Oem coilpack is your best bet. Don't change it unless you have to. Keep us updated on your progress.
 
#4 ·
Sorry guys I kind forgot to let you know what engine I have.

I have the 2.8L, 12v Vr6. 2001

Thank for the pointer for the strut bushings, balljoints and control arm bushings. I'll sure look at them while I'm down there I'll take pics and post them here see what you guys think.
 
#11 ·
the purpose of upgraded wires is they carry the electric current more efficiently with less resistance inside the wire generally speaking.. the fatter the wire.. the more current it can carry.. there for.. that 1mm difference will result in a slightly more efficient spark from your plug..

do what everyone else said above.. i always ran MSD wires.. but again.. theyre pricey.. but i always thought well worth it.

if your doing rotors.. do pads.. just to state the obvious.
ebc green stuf pads are phenominal pads. i love them.. even though im only running them on the rear brakes.

i have wilwood 4 piston calipers up front
 
#12 ·
Bushing, control arm, ball joint

Here some pic I took of the bushing and other component. Do you need a special tool to remove bushing out of the control arm??

so would it be better just to change the control arm all together... knowing there is a 200$ gap between just the bushing and the whole thing...

And if you guys see anything else that look like its gonna go or need repairs let me know I'm pretty clueless :confused:

For anti-roll bars, I got an order of eibach 22mm - 25mm... was wandering if that was enough for it to make a change in the handling. Since the part is back order should I just get the upgrade for the 27mm - 30mm or is not worth the extra 225$

Thanks guys











Cheers !
 
#13 ·
the control arm bushings are pressed in. thats why i had the shop install my poly ones when i got inspected.. guy on vortex used a car to push them in.. he put the control arm on a board.. but had it that the bushing was able to touch the ground.. and drove a car up onto it just onto where the bushing is and it pushed it in.. guess it works... not exactly my first go to to do this.. but it works.

tie rod end links can be a bitch to get out.. youll need the tie rod pick.. it looks like a huge thick grill fork.. tap that bitch in there and pry up. itll pop the end link out and then just unscrew it.. mark your threads first.. so when you put the new tie rod end link on you can screw it to that same thread.. and thus not have to readjust the whole front end. itll be close.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top